Cruise Day 4 - Heidelberg/Manneheim, Germany

Wednesday 3rd April 2013

This morning we awoke in Mannheim where we disembarked for a coach journey to Heidelberg.  It was bitterly cold and our guide had us standing around outside while she slowly explained features of the majestic Heidelberg Castle to us (setting for the opera, The Student Prince).

I’m still feeling poorly and standing about in the cold isn’t doing me any good.  I’m wondering how everyone else is faring but most are from the Northern Hemisphere and are perhaps more hardy than us kiwis.

Finally we move inside the amazing castle ruins atop a hill overlooking the University town.  Well, when I say inside, it’s into a room with the biggest wine barrel I’ve ever seen.

A hot-mulled wine is the best buy of the day at 2.50 euros.  The woman selling it kept telling us it wasn’t ready but I insisted.  Delicious and warmed me up enough for a quick foray into the ruins outside.  Just long enough to take a couple of photos then it was back inside for me.

Heidelberg University is Germany’s oldest, 600 years old.  The city is often thought of as Germany’s intellectual capital. They have strange fraternity customs here - they still duel!  Once the wounds were on their faces - rubbed with horse hair so they get infected and leave a livid scar.  Now the wounds are on the body as students are vain!  Quite bizarre really!

While other German cities were destroyed during the Allied bombings of WWII, Heidelberg was largely spared.  As a result, it has retained its baroque charm with narrow streets, helmet-shaped towers, stone bridges, historic churches and, of course, ivy-covered castle ruins.  Many believe American bombers during WWII steered their bombs away from it.

We eagerly hop back on the bus, bliss and warmth, to be dropped down in the town for a short walking tour before being left for an hour to shop.  It’s bitterly cold!  The shops are all tourist traps - expensive.

We buy a local delicacy (snowball) but even this sweet does nothing to enthuse me.  The shop window looks magnificent but my snowball is disappointing.  The snowball is a biscuit, a spherical pastry with various topping or filling.  My tasted like dry biscuit with a bit of chocolate on top.  Rip off!  No filling in mine. I just want to be back onboard the ship as I’m not feeling too well.  I still have hacking cough but managing to keep it under control.

As we return via Manneheim, an industrial town so different from Heidelberg, we learn that 30,000 American soldiers have been stationed there since the war.

In direct contrast to Heidelberg, Manneheim was flattened during the war as it was a major industrial area. John Deer, Mercedes Benz (first car built here by Mr Benz), Bunsan burner, Seimens are all here.

Back to the boat for a scenic trip along the Rhine.

Lunch is German style with beers and the crew dressed up.  As it's mostly hearty sausage, I opt for the celery soup with crispy chips. Then it’s off for an hours sleep for me.

During the afternoon we cruise past picturesque towns with many people out walking along the river banks. We are lucky enough to have booked a bridge and galley tour so spend the afternoon exploring the ship.

Best purchase is a couple of minature bottles of cheap bubbly which we take back onboard to enjoy later. Once again we manage to enjoy our low cost pre-dinner drinks in style.

Dinner tonight is white asparagus soup followed by unusual butterfish on wild rice with papaya salsa.  For desert a delicious tart blackcurrant pudding.

I’m struck down with bad lower back pains during dinner so head back to the cabin for a shower, a rub down with Vicks and into bed.  I’ve probably caught a chill.  We don’t go into town that evening - too cold for me.

Pam is suffering bad stomach pains but ate the same as me.  What a pair we make!