Friday, 18 April 2014

Gala night

WOW! WOW! AND WOW! Words fail to describe the spectacle that I was privileged enough to attend last night.

Think red carpet Oscar night then multiply that by 100. Add in the glitz, glamour and sparkle of Tiffany’s and you might begin to describe the event.

I was fortunate enough to be invited to accompany another fabulous New Zealander to an Emirate wedding. If I was blown away by the event last time, well that was nothing compared to this. This was the elite of wedding finery held in a wedding hall at one of the local hotels.

Arriving at 9:30pm after a detour to drop off the teenager, signs warning men to stay away was the first indicator that we were in the right place. Then the beat of the ever present Arabic music led us to the correct entrance. We were guided through the draped white wonderland into an entrance room filled with flower arrangements. A reception committee was ready to greet guests and we joined a local family to be welcomed by around 20 women, ending with the groom’s sister who I know.

A splash of our favourite perfume or oud was waiting at the end of the line for us to perfume ourselves with.

Suitable fragrant we entered the wedding hall itself. All evening I longed to take pictures so I would have adequate vocabulary to describe the event.

The hall was huge. The front was dominated by an enormous white catwalk leading to a stage with a white couch centerpiece.

The rest of the cavernous room was filled with round tables, each seating 12 people. Stately chairs with gold trim housed women of all shapes and sizes. My eyes were immediately drawn to the magnificent floral centerpieces on each table. Tealight candles burned in giant wineglasses, casting a flattering glow over the already glamourous women.

It was difficult to miss the enormous table at the back of the room filled with chocolate displays and macaroon trees inside boxes. These delights would later be handed around to us to sample.

We chose a table and joined three young women. The tables were preset with silver cutlery, plates edged with silver, wine glasses (although we would not be drinking any wine) and entrees.

Our entree consisted of five mini tasters artfully presented - hummus, vine leaves, chicken wrap in lettuce, stuffed eggplant & another dip. A basket of bread was available for us to enjoy. In front of our plate was an Italian salad of cheese, tomato and basil pesto. Plates of tiny nibbles were brought around along with fresh fruit juices.

Very quickly our entree plates were being cleared in preparation for the main meal. Platters of rice, meat and other specialities were placed on the table and we were served individually by the army of servants.

Fizzy drinks (fanta, sprite & coke) accompanied this course). A plate of chocolates with the most delectable soft caramel centre arrived and was quickly demolished.

Then came the delicious dessert of small round balls, like donuts, steeped in sticky sauce and sprinkled with sesame seeds. These are served on long toothpicks. Tea and the ever present bitter Arabic coffee continued to circulate. The first tea was cold pomegranate juice. The next was hot yellow, ginger infused milky tea. Then came sweet green tea. Another deep fried dessert which tasted of herbs and was liberally dusted with icing sugar arrived.

Chocolates displays were brought around for us to avail ourselves of a choccy or two. Sitting back to enjoy the spectacle I was amazed to see an army of servants walking out in two lines holding plates, of what suspiciously looked like dessert, aloft. Surely not! But yes it was. An assembly line of staff distributed individual plates which contained 5 mini desserts including my all time favourite of creme brulee! But there was even more as the delicious caramel semolina texture sticky dessert arrived.

By now we’ve been continually plied with food and drink for nearly four hours.

And that is just part of the evening. I haven’t touched on the gowns the women wore, the wedding abayas to cover the gowns, the bride’s arrival accompanied by her brother, the grooms arrival later on accompanied by male family members, the cameras, lights, the never ending loud music, the dancing, and best of all the people.

Although it was nearly impossible to speak due to the loud continuous music I ‘met’ an amazing older Arabic woman who chose to sit next to me all evening. She poked and prodded me while looking me up and down. First she checked out my hands and rings! I’m sure she was sizing me up for a wife for her son. Then she kept patting her stomach. Ummmm... As I don’t speak arabic it was difficult but she relentlessly kept talking to me. She was impressed as I moved my hands in time to the music, at one stage grabbing my hands and ‘hand dancing’ with me at the table. Which I was much happier with than stage dancing! Later she took two serviettes to do a hanky dance. She was the life of the party. When the chocolates arrived she spirited many away into her plastic supermarket ‘doggie’ bag. Then she added left-over desserts. What a hoot. All this money and wealth and she’s taking things home.

One point that struck me was how many women there wore the traditional metallic face covering. This differs from the fabric shela or head covering as it is traditionally a metal frame that covers the nose and mouth. Nowadays it appears to be made out of softer metallic looking fabric with cardboard providing shape. It needs to be moved aside or up for eating or drinking. I have not encountered a prevalence of this before and I’d say nearly half the guests were so attired, including younger women.

Once again, although I’d dressed up in my ’best’ finery it was nothing compared to the gowns the women wore. I use the term gowns as dress is too nondescript. Kate Middleton has nothing on this couture. I would have loved to snap pictures of the back of the gowns with covered buttons, lace, crystals, inserts, embroidery... I could go on all night. Obviously I was in heaven. Shoes matched in many cases and all were at least 5 inches high. Hair and makeup was off magazine covers with ringlets to die for. The essential clutch was on display on the table (we were given a mini lesson by an older woman on where to place our bags). My darling friend picked my silver clutch up and examined it then covered it with her serviette. I wasn’t sure if this was to protect it or steal it!

Then there were the jewels. Necklines sparkled and shone, ears were adorned with drops that would do the crown jewels justice. I’d love to know how many of the ‘diamonds’ were real but I’d say a fair proportion were. Rubies, sapphires and jade were common place but mostly diamonds. Even the young girls wore pearls and gold enough to pay off third world debt.

Somehow my silver plated necklace and paste drop earrings just didn’t cut it!

By 1pm most women were leaving so we bade out hostess farewell and left, taking a posy of fresh flowers with us and the most incredible memories.

Tuesday, 1 April 2014

The Promised Land

Having made it safely through all the checkpoints and security and arrived in Israel the next challenge was to find my luggage (one carry on suitcase) amongst the hundreds of bags literally dumped beside the carousels.

Eventually I found it and made my way outside, purchasing a ticket for a sherut (shared taxi) into Jerusalem.  I am thankful to all the folk on Trip Advisor who take the time to post about their experiences as they make it easier for other travellers to get around.

Arriving in Jerusalem was an experience.  There is an undercurrent of tension, whether real or imagined I'm not sure but there nevertheless.  The taxi dropped us in the middle of nowhere.  Luckily there was an English speaking couple who knew where they were going so I followed them to the tram line and found my way to the city bus depot where I caught a bus which would take me directly to Hod Hasharon, my final destination.

One aspect of traveling in Israel is that few people speak English, a fact that I hadn't considered, making it difficult to get around or buy anything to eat!

Arriving safely at my friend's house I was ready for an early night after a few hours talking and catching up.

I slept in next morning and spent the day just chilling out, reading, drinking tea or wine, sitting outside on the deck, smelling the flowers, seeing the potatoes growing next door, walking around the streets, in fact just doing normal everyday things.

Today I caught the bus from here into town, then caught an intercity bus into Tel Aviv.  What a beautiful city.  It is a mix of old (Jaffa Port being the first port in the world) and new buildings.  The Mediterrean Sea was pounding in to the golden coastline.  The market had the cheapest and freshest vegetables and food.  I walked for about 4 hours solid just enjoying the freedom and the green parks.  I walked to Jaffa Port and spent an enjoyable hour there, eating icecream, writing postcards, before discovering an amazing warren of art galleries with the most incredible soft painting that I have ever seen. Look it up if you (like me) haven't heard of it before.  The technique uses felt instead of canvas and wool is the medium instead of paint.
I can tell you that one of the large vibrant masterpieces was screaming out to get into my suitcase and go home with me.  But it hasn't...

Jordan Day 2

I went to sleep to the sound of a storm brewing and awoke early to the sound of a rooster crowing.  Intending to bathe early down at the Dead Sea, I headed down for an early breakfast.  Obviously I am the only early riser as no one else was around.  I later realised that my clock is one hour ahead so that may explain it.

After breakfast I headed outside to walk down to the beach, only to be stopped by security who tell me that the bus doesn't go for half an hour.  I insist on walking down, much to everyone's horror!  So off I trot, only to be met with many trucks driving by.  I make it safely down to the beach to find the Dead Sea is an angry ocean spewing forth logs and driftwood as far as you can see.   Alone on the beach apart from a couple of 'interested' truck drivers who seem to think it's break time, I decide it's time to cover myself with the famous Dead Sea mud. What a hoot!  I'm joined by some Russian women who don't speak any language but the language of fun is universal.  I 'bake' for an hour then decide it's time to wash it off.  Only trouble is, gee whiz, I'm dreaming if I think I can even stand up in the sea as the waves are crashing in.  It's not like normal water at the best of times so now it has become impossible to stand so we resort to using the cold showers.

Imagine my surprise when a few hours later I meet the same women at the Jordan River being fully baptised!

For me it's back to the hotel to shower and pack for the next leg of the journey.  My driver phoned me last night and is due to collect me at 11am.  Promptly he arrives and we head off to John the Baptist's baptisimal site on the Jordan River.  We are taken by bus down the road then have a 45 minute walk to the river.  When we arrive I am surprised to see how close Israel is.  Guards with guns are on both sides.

I have to admit the feeling as I was walking along the paths was one of awe.  The group was made up of a mixture of believers, fanatics, and detractors so it was interesting listening to the many conversations.  Many photos later we return, looking across at Jericho and Elijah's hill.  I am probably not doing this justice at the moment but it was a moving experience for me and most there.

My next big adventure of the day is to cross the border at King Hussain Bridge into Israel.  Suffice to say in this forum that it is something that everyone should be made to do.  Perhaps we'd have a better understanding of why some people act as they do.  I certainly had my eyes opened!

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