Sri Lanka - Day 2 (evening Cultural Show)

Our driver meets us at 4.45pm for the short drive to the theatre.  It reminds me of an old school hall.  It's cooled by six fans so we opt to sit towards the back under one.  It's hot in there even with the fans.  Hall fills up to near capacity and I later learn that friends of mine from Abu Dhabi were there as well.  In fact, most people we ran into were from AD.  Because of the short flight and reasonable prices it was a very popular destination in that week.

The show begins with drums that don't stop until the end.  It's hot and I didn't bring any water!  A small glass bottle of coke sells for 80LK but I don't buy one.  I begin to get a headache - 30 minutes is enough for me, 1 hour is a bit too long.  We are treated to an energetic display of male prowess with spinning, cartwheels, intense drumming, and jumping all performed with lavish costumes.

It is difficult to take pictures due to so many arms raised with cell phones.   Here are the ones I got inside the hall.

The show ends with an even more impressive fire walking demonstration.  It begins with one of the guys throwing diesel onto what looks like a large flat BBQ.  Flames shoot into the air with clouds of thick black smoke.

 The fire swallowing is not as impressive.  Perhaps he is new to the job.

Our driver is waiting for us at the end.  He is great but many things are lost in translation!

I've asked for a traditional dinner with a vegetarian option.  The restaurant he takes us to sports a Trip Advisor poster so I'm hoping it's ok.  First impression is that it isn't clean, tables are not wiped, tin cups of water are put on tables filled from the hand washing tap.  But the driver recommends it. He is parking while we enter and take stock.  We invite him in to join us and sit down to sample the delights...

150LK buys us bread with 3 dipping sauces (chickpeas, potato curry & a spicy white yoghurt).  40Lk for a starter (savoury donut & white sauce; pumpkin balls (delicious) and same white sauce.  We order fizz to be sure as we don't want to risk the water.  The fizz arrives in a cup not a can as expected.  We tentatively sip it while eating our food.  Our trepadation is caused by the many stories of food poisoning that friends have experienced and we know to avoid salads, fresh water and various other delights.

We pay 760LK for 3 of us (including the driver) and hope we tolerate the food & drink.  We kiwis tip 20Lk only to receive an aghast look from the waiter.  We add another 20LK.  Still horror!  We ask the driver who reluctant to say.  Eventually he suggests 150-300LK.  OMG!  We are under tipping big time so add another 100LK as the guy has been back and forth repeatedly.  He finally smiles (and forgives us random foreigners - we hope)>

Sri Lanka - Day 2 (Negombo to Kandy)

We were on the road at 9am which was very civilised.  The driver (Nemal) had suggested leaving directly for Kandy from the airport and it was a decision we should have taken.

It's hot down by the Indian Ocean and I wished I had more cotton clothes with me.  We set off on a journey that is 2 1/2 hours in the guide books.

I'm impressed by the greenery which is one reason I wanted to visit.  As we pass our first river, albeit brown, I feel myself begin to relax, a feeling that was to continue throughout the trip.

After driving for several hours the first stop is The Millenium Elephant Foundation.   One of my goals was to ride an elephant so after opting out of the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage due to mixed reviews the driver assures us that this place is better.  I hand over 3000LK at the entrancce which should get me a 15 minute elephant ride.  There seem to be no spare guides so we wander around for a while and wait.  Elephants are bathing in the brown river with their Mahouts.  The option is available to wash them but getting soaked isn't really on the agenda at this stage.  I have to exert myself to get onto an elephant.

Never having been one for riding horses, I find the elephant high up off the ground.  I thought I'd be getting a hoodah but find out they are nearly illegal in most countries.  Clinging on for dear life, it is a bony, uncomfortable as hell, ride.   And did I mention scary?  I'm hanging on for dear life and it doesn't feel safe.  Every time she, 'Matria', goes down a small incline I think I might slide off over her head.  But I don't and I manage to complete the journey although it will be a 'one-off''!

What do you know?  My phone is flat and as that is my only camera I don't get any photos.  Staff were following the elephants around snapping pictures.  I only had my mahout with me.

Feeling ripped off by the lack of staff (who were dressed in green uniforms) I was astounded at the end when my mahout demanded money from me.  Suddenly, at the end, there seemed to be a surplus of staff checking that I was happy.  "So, are you finished with my services now?"  Yet they had done nothing so didn't get a tip.

The foundation ran an education programme and a small museum on the property had many interesting facts regarding the elephant population around the world.

We jump back into the car and head towards our next stop, a Spice Market.  Roadside stalls look inviting so we pull over to sample a King coconut (yellow husk) drink.  I love the way they hack the coconut open and pop in a straw.  We purchase a few red bananas, a new fruit for us, and find out that they are expensive but well worth it.  Apparently they are an aphrodisiac!  Whatever, they were very sweet and tasty.

On arrival at the Spice Market, our guide is extremely knowledgeable as he hands us a cup of spiced tea to begin our journey.  I enjoy wandering through the lush gardens where each plant and tree is named.  We sample a few of the spices and play guessing games using our noses to identify various spices.

At the end we are offered a complimentary massage by uni students who are on their practical training.  They work on a tip basis.  They already have 3 years of training and have another 3 years to go.  My 20 year old young man had hands to die for!  I am treated to a variety of products, white sandalwood for my face, red oil massage of my body.  I'm lying down on a park bench in the gardens and you'd think I was in the most expensive massage parlour in the world.  The red oil continues seeping into my bones for a long time afterwards.  My friend and I tip generously in response to the wonderful experience.  A hot chocolate with red banana syrup is perfect to conclude this amazing interlude.

While we continue on our journey to Kandy I absorb all the sights and sounds of Sri Lanka.  They drive on the left, same as NZ.  Many times I had to breathe in as there seemed to be no room for the car to get through the tiny gaps between oncoming traffic and vehicles travelling in the same direction as us.  The road is two lanes but passing occurs anywhere.  There is a plethora of cars, buses, motorbikes and tuk tuks everywhere.  Buses seem to have right of way and pull out in front of oncoming traffic all the way.  Tooting is second nature.

My eyes are delighted by the kaleidoscope of colour everywhere.  Stalls line the road side selling an array of products.  Tuk tuks and bikes come racing up on our left.  It is slow travelling and speeds of 50km per hour is speeding.  Police are 2 to a motorbike.  Soldiers shoulder weapons.  School children all wear white.  Ramshackle shacks line the road, mayhem abounds with tuk tuks, motor bikes, buses stopping everywhere.  I am struck by colour, culture, clothes, vehicles, buildings old and new.

As we approach Kandy, the buildings become newer.  We pass over the Mahiri River, the longest river in Sri Lanka, where the bridge is jammed with traffic.

Kandy is surrounded by hills with its main feature being a beautiful lake.  Traffic is a nightmare as we arrive around 3pm and make our way slowly to our hotel.

Hotel Suisse was chosen online and I'm hoping for a better level of accomodation than Negombo.  We are not disappointed.  Hotel Suisse has mixed reviews but the English trained staff in white uniforms bring back images of long gone Colonial Days.  The hotel is a grand old lady and you can imagine the aristocrats lining up as they arrived and left.  We are offered cold refreshing watermelon drinks on arrival while we wait to check in.  Historic photos line the walls and the history is plain to read.

After instructing the driver to pick us up for a cultural show at 5.30pm we head to our rooms to relax.
So much for the 2 1/2 hour drive!

This time I get the double room while my companion gets a twin.  We are right at the end of left back wing overlooking the garden part of the restaurant.

We head down to check out the food - they offer a lovely buffet for 1700LK which we will do tomorrow night.  Wine is advertised as 20% off but when we order a glass it seems to be false advertising and they remove the sign.  After speaking to the manager we decline to purchase the French red Bourjelous at 4500Lk for a bottle and head up to our room to fill our water glasses with our duty free Wolf Blass Reisling.  We take this and a water bottle down to the garden bar and relax.  You can't fool us!!!

The hotel has a nice pool and spa with massage.  Overall we are very happy with tonight's choice and decide to book for another two nights and stay put in Kandy.  We are offered the same rate by the coincerge who then goes onto ask where we got such a good rate from.  Booking.com is my go-to website for hotels.  So at $70 US per night we felt we got a great deal.

Sri Lanka - Day 1 (Flight & arrival)

The flight is fully booked and as we didn't check in online we are unable to get seats together.  Luckily with the meet and greet and quick check in they didn't weigh our carry on bags.

With just a quick stop at the bookshop to buy a book each for the flight, we are aboard the plane in no time.

I'm sitting next to the window in a narrow row of three so my co-flyers have to stand up a few times as I get in and out during the flight.  I opt to spend a lot of the time standing at the back of the plane. Even though it's only a four and a half hour flight, it still gets uncomfortable.

I had forgotten to order my 'special' meal, vegeterian, but the menu for the flight had a vege curry available so it wasn't a problem.  I manage to watch one movie but as often happens, miss the end due to the prolonged landing announcements - a negative when the message is repeated in several languages.

A very relaxed airport awaits us and we are through immigration in no time.  I stop to buy a SIM card for my phone, only to find out that they give us free ones.  But mine has credit, free overseas & local calls and data.  This will be useful to book hotels or B&Bs as I have only booked the first two nights.

A quick stop at duty free to purchase a bottle of Baileys for the trip and some wine for my friend, well it was supposed to be quick.  My friend realises that she doesn't have her handbag and we have to go back through customs and search for it.  After a few frantic minutes with many staff involved, I find it sitting on the seat by the phone kiosk.  Thankful, we head back to duty free to complete the purchases.

Friends were just in Sri Lanka and I have arranged to use their driver.  It is reasurring to find him waiting with a sign with my name on it.  As we follow him out of the airport we are assailed by the heat.  Now I'm coming from Abu Dhabi so you'd think I'd be used to the heat.  But no, this is hot, sticky heat and I'm dripping while we wait for the driver to bring the car around.  I'm glad that we are not trying to compete with the language and the heat to find a nights accomodation and quickly settle into the airconditioned comfort to watch the world go by on our drive to our guest house/hotel.

I chose Negombo, a beach settlement close to the airport, for our first night.  Using Booking.com I had researched the place.  Two sets of friends used only guest houses while travelling and paid less than $25 US per night so that was my benchmark.

On arrival at Windmill Beach Hotel I was left wondering what I'd booked.  We get a welcome glass of lemonade but wonder if we should drink it due to the overall impression of less than cleanliness.  However, we do, with a lot of eye contact between us.  I'd booked seperate rooms.  They looked lovely online but the reality was very different.  I paid for a room for the driver which was a similar price to ours.

Image from Booking.com website

Reality!

 One double room had a mosquito net.  Mine had twin beds and I couldn't change as they were full.  No mosquito net and anyone who knows me knows how much they love biting me.  The bathroom was unpleasant and I had several unwelcome visitors in the form of cockroaches.  The sheets were ripped and I didn't welcome spending the night there.

So first stop was the nearby mini supermarket to buy mosquito coils and spray.  Then onto the Banana Bar to down a cheap beer before heading back to the 'hotel' to drink some wine and Baileys. Next morning left us wondering how cheap that beer was as my friend found herself short of her US dollars.  Was it some slick handywork by the 'Russian' that sat briefly with us and held us rapt with his intense conversation about NZ?  Or was it some extremely overpriced ice paid for in US dollars rather than Sri Lankan rupees?  We will never know.

Breakfast the next morning consisted of scrambled eggs and toast with tea or coffee.  Even then we were doing lots of the eye contact to see if we would eat it, but we did.

We were relieved when our driver showed up to take us out of our misery and onto Kandy, our stop for the night.

Sri Lanka - Day 1 (Airport)

Our much-needed break has finally arrived.  After weeks of windy, dusty, sand-stormy weather, I'm due some clear skies and fresh air.  With the teenager already overseas in Thailand it's left to me to relax over the weekend and pack for the few days I will be away.  Did I mention that our spring break had been reduced from two weeks to one?  The first week was spent in Professional Development that suddenly I had to organise (with help from others but still an additional amount of work with staff who really didn't want to be there).

Sunday morning sees me with my carry-on bag ready to go.  Although it's over the weight limit when I pop it on the scales!  Will this be a problem?  I'm flying Etihad and they have some mixed reviews at the moment, especially from down-under due to cancelling and changing flights for the ANZAC commerations in Turkey.

I'm 5 minutes late to meet my friend across the road (unlike me) and see her already outside with her carry-on.  What good travellers we are.  A car awaits us so I hurry across the road to get this journey started.

Only to find that it isn't our car.  The deal was that she would arrange the drop-off to the airport and I'd arrange the pick-up on return.  But her car hasn't arrived.  After some fluffing about and repeatedly asking the driver in the car sitting waiting for no-one at 10am on a Sunday morning (strange turn of coincidence) she nips up to her apartment to check her emails.  I had a confirmation email and she hadn't so in the end we make use of the driver and his fee of 60AED to get underway to the airport.  He was much cheaper than a taxi and just happened to be sitting there waiting!

Arriving at the airport we head to the Golden Class counter to find our 'meet & greet'.  This service is free from our bank so I was showing off to my friend as how to access the perks of living here.  She'd had a SMS from them confirming her meet but I hadn't.  It seemed like it might be going to be a day of that.

The process of arranging the meet and greet is to phone the 0800 bank number, be put on hold for usually around 20 minutes, then order it.  To arrange the driver for pick up or drop off it's a similar process.  Phone the bank (wait ...), order the service, get given a phone number to ring, ring, get an answer machine three times, leave a message, (wait...), phone again, get a person, receive an order form via email, print it off, fill it in, email it back, and WELLA!  You have a driver arranged!  Meet and greets are free and unlimited while drivers are free two times a year.

Our friendly staff member takes us through the business class check in facilities and does the check in for us.  In a matter of minutes we are through customs and heading to the lounge.  Another bank perk!  With extensive rebuilding of the airport underway (due to open 2017) the lounge is smaller than the last time I used it.  I later find out that this is a new lounge and the other one is still open so now know I have a choice of two to use.

We take advantage of the free food for our breakfast and dine on a variety of tasty dishes available for us.  Fresh juice and tea and coffee are served at our table and we use the opportunity to relax and enjoy ourselves.

While we await our flight in a couple of hours the bar beckons so we sample some of the many wines on offer.  As usual, I opt for a glass of bubbly.  Finally, the holiday has begun.

Mid term catch-up

Is it really 6 weeks since I last posted?  How time flies when you are having fun!

I'm not sure if fun is the right word as work has been full-on since returning the first week of January.  Being robbed of a weeks holiday to endure a week-long Professional Development programme left a sour taste in our mouths.  And that was without eating the food.

Being lured into submission with the promise of breakfast and lunch being provided, we duly arrived at the appointed hour.  No lie in for us or shorter drive.  No!  Just early starts and days that dragged.  But back to the food (our staple conversation piece here).  Disappointing doesn't really do justice to the picture I want to paint.  Not enough of it sums up the mad rush to grab whole plates of food, just to leave most of it half eaten or untouched on the tables while others go without.  Repetitious comes to mind to describe how the same food was served day after day.  I'm sure some it sat in the storeroom and was brought out as required as I didn't know bread rolls could be so stale.  And that's not even mentioning the pasta that was off!  I know... I hear you... Pasta!  Off?  How so???

But we endured and returned to work in much better frames of mind than if we'd been lying on the beach somewhere.  I feel a Tui add coming on... Yeah! Right!

Needless to say the top administration spent the week without us dreaming up work that needed to be done by us, the staff.  So it was back into it at a full run.  No easing ourselves back into work mode.  No, not for us.

So my feet have hardly touched the ground yet and the term only has 5 weeks left to run before we have our next, well-needed, break.

Still, lucky for me, and you the reader, that life has many pleasant distractions outside this realm.

The weather continues to be wonderful but is quickly warming up into the 30s by the afternoon.  We had a cold snap and I mean cold.  I nearly purchased a jacket to wear to work but desisted.  We had a blanket drive at work to send new blankets to the refugees in Syria due to the harsh cold snap that struck the region.  They were suffering not only under war conditions but freezing conditions on top of it with snow piling up in the refugee camps.

And then there's the rain.  I love it when it rains here.  It is so otherworldly!  By that I mean we, the westerners, stand around and look on in disbelief (and often laughter) as events unfold.  First, it's the driving and the multiple crashes on the way to work.  This happens in the fog also.  But back to the rain.  Then there's the schools that are ill equipped to deal with rain.  Roofs leak, electrical circuits blow out, fire alarms ring, and in our case we had the full emergency response team arrive at school while we stood out in the rain, freezing!  Cameras are snapping photos, we are all open mouthed, kids are screaming, the fire alarm rings incessently, men in uniforms trapse around the school accompanied by security guards, women are hastily covering their faces while taking photos of the proceedings.  Then we all go back to class and try to teach without power, water, while we hope and wait for the buses to be called early to take the students home.

Lately I've been to a few BBQs.  One was out in the desert and I returned to the same spot (aptly named Camel's graveyard because of the camel skeltons there) with the same group of people last weekend.  We planned to camp but the evening ended up with some of the vehicles returning to town and the decision was made for us all to return around midnight.  As there was only two vehicles left we didn't feel it was safe enough if we got stuck when trying to return.  If the second vehicle gets stuck trying to get the first one out, then you're stuffed!  On our previous evening trip we did get stuck as we were leaving and the thought of a day spent out in the sun without adequate provisions wasn't something we wanted to happen.

I've also been out to many dinners at outside restaurants while the weather holds.  The beer garden continues to be our regular Thursday night fish & chip venue.  What intrigues me is the wonderful array of people you meet each week when you share your table - this week it was a British couple who had been here for 13 years then later it was a couple of Aussie copter pilots.  Always someone new to talk to.  People watching continues to be a passion of mine and finding out what everyone does or why they came here fascinates me.

This weekend has been quiet due to a raging sandstorm which has lasted two days already so plans for getting some sun down at the pool were put on hold.  Today it's been catching up with family back in NZ via Skype, catching up on sleep, catching up on washing, and now perhaps catching up on paperwork!

I've also been trawling the internet (before it went down for many hours due to a security glitch) looking at holidays - another conversation staple here.

Spring break is fast looming and I'm heading to Sri Lanka.  Once again, the powers that be have taken a week of our holidays for PD so we're all over the moon about that.  So that only leaves a week of what is traditionally a big trip for most teachers.  I've booked my flights - 5 nights only.  Now the choice remains whether I do a beach trip to relax or head for the inland hills and some walking and maybe adventure in the hilly tea plantations.  I'm leaning towards the second option at the moment and looking at a tour as I'm traveling alone.  With only 5 nights I don't want to waste time trying to find my way around and getting from A-B.

Then I have the real biggie coming up two weeks later.  For those Kiwis & Aussies reading this will strike a chord!  Gallipoli for the 100th Centenary.  Wow!  Yes, my son was lucky enough to win ballot tickets so him and I are flying over for a four day weekend to take part in what will be another once-in-a-lifetime event.  Me and 10499 others!  So the planning for that and what to take in my tiny backpack (no camping gear) to overnight in the open in cold temperatures continues.  Any advice from those that have been is welcome.

Needless to say that I'm working so I can holiday...

Anyone for Tennis?

New Years Day and I receive a phonecall from a kiwi friend asking if I'd like to go to the tennis?

Every year they have the Mubadala World Tennis Championship here for Jan 1-3.  Six top players attend and it is an event the locals flock to annually.

I'm due to pop down to my other kiwi whanau for lunch but as the tennis doesn't start until later in the day and the ticket is free I agree.

After a great catch up downstairs I meet in the lobby and we head off in a taxi.  The weather is good but I expect it to cool down once the sun sets so grab a jacket.  I can't believe how many times my hoodie has been on me this year.  In three years it's the first time I've worn it and I'm wearing it daily.  I think this winter is cooler than previous years.  And the fog has been late starting also.

Arriving at the tennis we are in time to see several of the stars signing autographs.  Crowds line up and the queue snakes around the complex.  Not being interested in autographs we attempt to fly a plane, get photos of myself as a champion, pose with a huge racket and generally soak up the atmosphere.

I am stoked to see that bubbly and strawberries are on the menu.

Our seats are nearly at the top and the steps are narrow so care is required, especially when climbing down later after a few bevvies.

Our first game is Andy Murray vs Feliciano Lopez.  What a game!  The excitement mounts as the players go back and forth points wise.  The game continues for 2 hours 45 minutes with Murray taking out the win, but only just.

The second game is nowhere near as exciting.  I feel a bit for the players as they have a difficult time to play to the level of the first game.  Also the crowd has dwindled as people left either to find food or because it was getting cold.

As we leave there is dew sitting on the cars.  We have to walk across the road to the hospital to get a cab and even there there are none.  So we walk some more, past a family park full of locals having BBQs on little portable stoves with coals burning brightly.  Eventually I flag down a cab and head home for a well earned rest.  Who knew I'd enjoy tennis so much I may become a regular.
Roll on 2015.

New Years Eve. Goodbye 2014 - Hello 2015

New Years eve seemed to be upon me before I'd had time to recover from Christmas.  This year I was determined to get down to see the fireworks so had organised with some friends to meet up and head to nearby Maryah Island which houses the Galleria Mall.

Planning for an early start we meet up at my apartment for 6.30pm.  After a few disruptions we head over around 8pm and find a car park.  The mall is teeming with high end designer shops and most locals look like they've just come out of them.

One noticable occurrence is that the men are nearly all dressed in coloured kandoras when they normally wear white.  This is because it is winter and the darker colours attract the heat.  The high heeled stilletos are out in force along with expensive jewellery.

We amble around the mall to the food court and decide on Buriyani Pot to eat at, which my friend had recommended.  I order a combo which gives me two curries, two breads, pickles, salad & yoghurt for 38 dirham.  Adding a soft drink to it still means it's a cheap meal.  Kiwi giant Burger Fuel sits alongside and is a popular option.  By the time we've finished we are being hassled for our seats as the mall has filled up and everyone wants to eat.  Feeling the pressure we eventually vacate and head outside to check out the stalls that are set up on the waters edge.

Thinking we will wander aimlessly along, stopping to meander in and out of tents looking at goods, we are sadly mistaken.  Once we are in the throng we can't get out and have to keep moving as best as we can along the pathway with the masses, all the while looking for a seat as it's still an hour or so until midnight.

I eventually spot one marble plinth cordoned off with tape.  Being bolshy I walk through a garden and seize the seat.  Once we are there all sorts of people come wandering over hoping to take advantage of our prize.  But no way!  We are keeping this to ourselves.  As the marble seat is cold one of our group makes an amazing find, deck chairs stacked behind a wall.  So we settle down in comfort, still guarding our marble seat against newcomers.

Kiwi connections.

Time seems to stand still and I hear the call of the nearby hotel...  Gaylene, Gaylene, Gaylene.  I deputize two of our group to go up and check it out.  Only one returns.  Briefly!  To grab her bag and inform me that my drinks are bought and I need to get up there.  3rd floor outdoor deck, prime spot for fireworks.  Feeling bad to be leaving the young couple I'd invited with their baby in a pushchair, I delay my exit for another 20 minutes or so until I get a phone call telling me to get a hurry on.

Once I arrive upstairs at the bar I find a raging outdoor bar full of young, successful, trendy people, well liquored by this stage.  All night we'd been trying to get a head dress with greetings on it and they were there for the taking.

Initially unable to find my friends I wander, lost in space, sticking out like a sore thumb amongst the short dresses, high heels, tuxedos, suits & ties.  I try phoning but the music is blaring.  Finally I get a call and jive my way through dancers to find my friends have scored a cabana with couches, lights and a table.  Wow!  Right beside the barrier.  We are in a prime spot to watch the fireworks.

Merry trio!

And did I mention the fireworks?  Wow!  Incredible.  A pyrotechnics dream.  An amazing spectacle bursts forth from the middle of the water.  Evenly spaced from five floats the display goes on for 8-10 minutes, each explosion better than the one before.

Finishing a bottle of wine, we wander home, dodging speeding taxis (all full), crazy locals, joyous expats, through sand and tarmac.  Who would have thought somewhere so close would feel so far?

Happy New Year.  May 2015 bring you health, wealth & prosperity.