Pre-Christmas trivia

It seems like so much has happened since my last post!

I’m now on holiday for three weeks so it was heaven this morning to wake up and not have to leave the house until I was ready.  Which was around 10am when I headed downtown to collect a parcel from home.
Prior to that I’d skyped two of my children back home in Blenheim.  It was so good to talk to them and see them enjoying the wonderful summer weather that New Zealand is experiencing at the moment.  The down side was that I felt homesick after talking to them and then viewing all the photos of their wonderful day down the sounds with my good friends.

But a parcel from home is nearly as good as a long flight home.  Especially when it contains goodies that one can only get in good ole New Zealand!  Thanks Mum & Dad!  First it was the Maggi onion soup for making dip for Christmas Day.  Then the second parcel contained a few extra bags of pineapple lumps.  So I’ve spirited one bag away for Christmas Day also.

Since my last post I’ve attended a concert with two kiwi artists.  Dave Dobbyn and Don McGlashen played two concerts here in Abu Dhabi and we went along to the second night.  This night was cheaper and much more up close and personal.  As you can imagine it was a night full of kiwis all out drinking, singing, dancing towards the end, and generally having a good time.  I caught up with lots of people that I haven’t seen for ages so really enjoyed myself.  The teenager wasn’t into the music though!  Not much hope there.

 Rubbing shoulders with a Kiwi legend.

 Stunning Abu Dhabi architecture - Abu Dhabi Golf Club.

 Don McGlashen

Dave Dobbyn

I’ve survived one whole term at my new school and in my new post as HOF (Head of Faculty).  The job is often a glorified secretary.  Not at all what I expected.  Whatever happened to using my extensive knowledge of pedagogy and curriculum to improve outcomes for students?  With my co-Hof having resigned and gone I will be on my own with 19 EMTs (English Medium Teachers) next term.  I'm sure it will be a busy term with lots of learning curves for me.

With holidays started the expat population (especially teachers) thins out considerably.  Driving becomes bearable, the malls are less crowded and the poolside is empty.  The weather is glorious at the moment so those who choose to stay hang out by the pool, not necessarily swimming as it’s too cold!  The pool is only around 26 degrees now, not that I’ve been in it for a while.  I’ve been using the cooler mornings and evenings to get out and walk.  I usually manage to get 45 minutes to an hour in, preferring the mornings to evening.

The weekend just gone saw me attending a BBQ brunch for my friend’s sons 18th birthday.  So off to PJ O’Reillys we go.  You may remember this venue from an earlier post as it provides a great priced, well liquored lunch.  The food was different but the prevalence of booze remained the same.

 Two redheads go head to  head!

 Finished first - but is it the best?

 And the winner is???? Me!

Now for the drinking...

I am proud to announce that I won a Guiness t-shirt for pouring the best pint of Guiness!  I forgot to mention that I’d spent a few years behind the bar - something the teenager was surprised to hear!  So, I still have a few tricks, and secrets, up my sleeve yet.

The lunch ended up with quite a crowd of mostly kiwis so was a fun day meeting new people and catching up with old friends who I don’t always see.

Being a BBQ there were a couple of baby poaka cooked whole (not on a spit like in NZ).  So the heads ended up on our table being pulled apart and enjoyed.  Can’t say the other vegetarian or myself enjoyed having the head deposited on the table right in front of us.

 Look who's joining us for dinner!

At least it wasn’t like a particular pig cooked out the back at Spring Creek that the puppies ended up feasting on as the crew were too drunk to clear up the food before heading into town to the pub!  Memories that one of you out there should recall!

 Relaxing with friends.

Getting a few drinks in!

The next day saw me acting as a manager for a friend’s touch team at a local tournament.  It’s been a while since I was cast in that role and once again memories flooded back as I filled in the tournament team sheet.  I recall all the basketball tournaments where I’ve done that - too numerous to count.

As it’s nearly Christmas I’m staying put until Christmas Day at least.  There is a crew of mostly kiwis coming to lunch so it should be a great bash.  With four young folk between 18-21 no doubt a few bevvies will be in order.  Then other friends with younger children may join us later in the day for swimming, board games and other things you do in ‘winter’ in the Middle East.

So I’ve bought my Christmas dress and this morning I picked up a Santa Hat along with some Christmas lights.  I succumbed to the commercial pressure (and the teenager’s pressure) to buy a tree this year.  Last year I made do with my wreath on the door but with others coming for lunch I felt the need for more.  With all the pressies that have been arriving in the mail it’s looking very festive already.  The aroma of the peppermint chocolate is tantalising but it’s still safely under the tree.

You can bring any food into the country so if you are visiting you will get the ‘list’.  I did find a kiwi food shop online but it was expensive to get things shipped and I don’t remember what it was called - thinking I could live without these things - until I got them then realised I really do miss the taste of home.  Just need some Levin liquorice allsorts to top of my Christmas table.

I’ve enjoyed reading the Christmas Cards I’ve got, some of which included newsy annual letters.  I always say I’ll do that but have never managed to get round to it yet.  Oh well, there’s always next year!

If I don’t post again before Christmas, I wish you all a peaceful festive season.  Eat heaps, drink lots, love lots, laugh lots, cry if you need to, but most of all just live life!

“You've gotta dance like there's nobody watching,

Love like you'll never be hurt,

Sing like there's nobody listening,

And live like it's heaven on earth.”

William W. Purkey

Only in the UAE - Expo 2020

Another Only in the UAE day!

At times it is difficult to remember that the UAE is only a very ‘new’ country - 42 years next Monday to be precise.  Prior to that the seven Emirates along with Bahrain & Qatar were under British protection.  The economy was based on pearl diving until the bottom fell out of the world market then the discovery of oil saw the British unable to ‘afford’ to maintain security and they pulled out - leaving the way open for American interests.  Bahrain & Qatar became independent countries and the seven Emirates signed an agreement to become the United Arab Emirates.  (That’s the condensed version - check out http://www.lonelyplanet.com/united-arab-emirates/history for more information).

The advent of oil money paved the way for the leader, Sheikh Zayed - a visionary, to begin an intensive programme of building, infrastructure, schools &, hospitals.  His vision, which still lives on through his son, was to provide the citizens of the UAE with skills to survive when the oil runs out.  Hence the massive education drive which is what saw me come here.

Anyway, back to the point...

National Day is a huge celebration here in the UAE.  It begins with week long festivities at school and culminates with a day or two off work to join in the celebrations.  Everyone dresses  up in the colours of the flag, food is shared, chocolates are daily gifts at school, children arrive at school all decked out in National dresses, the hair dance is performed by girls, boys do a different dance involving the camel crock, parents are invited, cars are decorated and enter competitions and a huge parade, buildings glow at night with coloured lights showcasing the UAE.  The list goes on and on.  On National Day itself a huge car parade takes place - the streets are impassable with idiots hanging out of cars and showing off (a teenage boys paradise - but perhaps only if you are driving the ‘right’ car), concerts, airforce fly-bys, fireworks take place on the Corniche.  It is mayhem!  But the locals love it and live for it!

It is a huge celebration of their country.  And the power bill must be horrendous as the streets are all decorated with lights.  The Malls are all decked out inside - it’s big business here.

Huge, and I mean huge, flags decorate houses - I am sure all the neighbours try to outdo each other - after all it’s all about show here.  These flags went up for Flag Day a few weeks back.  20 story buildings have flags draped down their sides.  Men sit in alleys sewing these flags.  It’s an incredible sight and one that we could take some ideas for national pride from.

So we’ve been building up to this all week.  Today was to see our final celebrations at school then we have a four day weekend to travel, relax or do whatever it is you want to.  Remembering it’s only two weeks until our three week Winter Break (Christmas holidays to you).

But last night all that changed.  So here I am, up at 5.45am, but with no school today.  The country is in shutdown as we celebrate yet another major milestone in their history.

Last night, Dubai won the bid to host the 2020 Expo!  Now, if you’re like me, you probably don’t even know what the Expo is.  But after watching and waiting for hours last night I am informed.  It is the biggest technological showcase in the world.  It is what precipitated the building of the Eiffel Tower, it is where the typewriter was introduced, and other uniquely everyday inventions were unveiled.

The crowds were out celebrating in Dubai hours before they won it!  Reports say it was crazy there but the ‘official’ celebration at the Burj Khalifa afterwards was spectacular.  I wonder what they would have done with all the fireworks if they didn’t win.  Perhaps kept them to National Day to let off - after all they were in National colours.  After this fantastic display they bathed the tallest building in the world in blue lights (colour of the expo logo) then turned on the fountains underneath.  What a spectacular sight!

Anyway the National Anthem keeps being played on TV as I type this blognote.  Talk about National Pride!  It’s part of the psyche here.

So the Sheikh of Dubai decreed a holiday today for schools in the UAE.  But like anything here it’s difficult to get ‘official’ confirmation so I hope all the staff found out.  

The great news is that we now have a 5 day weekend, many schools now have six days!  Woo hoo

Plus Baskin Robins is giving away free ‘mini’ scoops of icecream between 1-5pm.  That will be chaos.

Only in the UAE...

Birthday surprise!

Birthday

Today has been electrifying, literally.

It all began at 6.55am as we exited the car parking building.  The sky was exceptionally dark and I commented on it to the teenager.  And it was raining!  That in itself is such an unusual occurrence here that it is worth mentioning.

As we made our way across the island the rain changed to a torrential downpour complete with thunder and lightening.  I suggested turning around and going home but the teenager was keen to get to school for a maths test. (WTF?)

Exiting the island and entering our daily challenge - Salam Street - the water had pooled into small lakes. You see, they have no drainage here on the roads as it only rains 2-3 times a year so I suppose there is really no need.  As I know the locals don’t know how to drive in rain I kept a respectable following distance and reduced my speed.  It seemed like most other drivers were doing the same.  The expectation was that the traffic would be slow due to numerous accidents and I wasn’t wrong.

Making it safely, if late, to drop off the teenager I looked up to see the sky ahead was a yellowy colour.  Finding this unusual I commented on it but effected the drop off and continued on my way, realising I was going to be late but not being particularly perturbed.

If only... hindsight is a wonderful thing isn’t it?

If only I had listened to my inner voice and turned around at the beginning.  But I carried on, still driving carefully and making allowances for other crazy drivers.  As I headed away from the airport, suddenly the road ahead disappeared in a cloud of sand.  I’ve experienced several sand storms here but hadn’t driven in one before.  Not realising what was ahead I continued gingerly on, flicking on my hazard lights and slowing down to a crawl.

But it was too late - I was inside the storm itself and once trapped there seemed to be no way out.  I glimpsed several cars parked on the side of the road and wanted to join them but couldn’t seem to find a way to exit my lane and move safely over three lanes to the side of the road without being hit from behind.  Gripping the steering wheel with white knuckles I just wanted to stop the car where I was and cry.  I have never been so frightened in my life!  But common sense (and that bl**dy voice) told me to keep going.  Honestly, you couldn’t see anything in front of you and I thought I was going to die.  This peeved me off no end as it was my birthday and I didn’t want to die in this bl**dy country on my bl**dy birthday.

So fortitude kicked in and I blindly kept to my lane at a snail’s pace - just praying that nothing hit me from behind or that I didn’t drive into something in front while trying to dodge debris on the road.  You couldn’t even see the exit but someone was looking out for me and I turned off and made it to school.  Once there, shaking and traumatised I was able to verbally express myself to another teacher who was feeling equally emotional and had phoned her husband on the way thinking she was never going to see him again (and it was his birthday).  So I wasn’t alone in this experience.  She was braver than me as I wanted to phone anybody but couldn’t take my eyes off the road to find my phone.

A third teacher had a similar experience and witnessed trucks sliding around in circles on the highway and trees being toppled by the wind.  She also commented that she just wanted to stop and cry!  Is that an emotional response to thinking you are about to die?  I wouldn’t know as I don’t have those experiences often.

I think those of us traveling alone found the experience much worse than others who were in company.  Also I think our timing found us in the full force of the storm whereas others arrived much later.

Then the thunderstorm must have been following us as that hit the school next and buildings here are not equipped to deal with torrential rain.  The gymnasium flooded, water is cascading down walls onto electrical sockets, girls are screaming at the thunder, only a few teachers have arrived - most schools were closed by 9am with students and teachers going home but NO, not us.  We are still teaching at 12 when the teenager phones to tell me ALL schools in Abu Dhabi have been closed and he is outside his school waiting for me to pick him up.  So off I head to our Principal to ask what is happening?  Yes, she’s had the same email but we are waiting for buses to arrive.  She certainly wasn’t keen to let me go and pick the boy up but after two visits to her office I just left!  Strange how our school can be so different to all the others...

After collecting the teenager and two friends for the weekend we headed home to cook lunch.  Now I enjoy the intellectual conversation of the teenagers here and these young Arab boys were no exception.  I am constantly amazed at their knowledge of Middle Eastern politics and have had some interesting discussions.  One of these boys is the teenagers clone - not in looks obviously - but in intellect, interests, ability to talk forever, disorganisation, and so many areas it was uncanny.  He said I sounded just like his mother when speaking to the teenager.  A teacher at school had expressed her ‘delight’ that I would have double trouble for the weekend.  I’m not sure if the other boy will manage to get a word in all weekend.

Once again I found myself teaching basic cooking skills while preparing lunch.  None of these boys here cook or know the first thing about cooking.  So an impromptu lesson on making garlic bread ensued.  Apparently it was better than Pizza Huts so that’s saying something.  When the teenager mentioned his cooking teacher they thought he had private lessons with someone.  A second lesson on how to do dishes followed!  I must say these boys are so polite and eager to learn new skills.  Not that they will ever need them as they all have maids and I’m sure will continue onto extremely well-paid jobs and have their own maids - to go along with their flash cars!

Anyway, safely ensconced at home I sure didn’t feel like going out to celebrate my birthday.  Hoping for a wet weekend so I could curl up with a good book and a hot cuppa or glass of Marlborough's finest I was content to let things lie but a phone call from my good friends downstairs saw me heading out to the local Indian for a lovely meal with great company.  A bottle of Matua sauvignon back at their apartment finished off a superb evening.

There has been a lot of talk about whether the storm was man-made.  Apparently out in the desert they have a setup for making rain and this may have been the result of their ‘research’.  This topic of conversation also reared its head after the typhoon in the Phillippines.  Where do people get their ideas from????

This morning I see the following email from our service providers giving us tips on how to deal with the rain that is expected this weekend.  You will all have a good laugh at this but those who have lived in a desert will know that this is the reality.  Only in Abu Dhabi!

The winter season is upon us! Cool days and even
cooler nights – at least for Abu Dhabi – will be here before we know it.

As seasoned residents know, Abu Dhabi typically
sees 2 to 3 rains per year, and these can range from
a simple shower to a heavy downpour. This letter is
to remind the “experienced” residents – and
provide some suggestions for those who haven’t
been through the winter season in Abu Dhabi – how
to prepare for the upcoming rain.

1. Please remember as it seldom rains here, and the weather is typically very arid and hot, seals around
windows and doors can harden and lose some of their effectiveness. Therefore, when it rains you should check all windows in your villa for leaks. Often a towel on the floor or window sill will prevent water from travelling.

2. Much of the construction in Abu Dhabi provides for a flat roof design. Depending on the design, this can
result in standing water on the roof. Waterproof membranes are typically installed, but standing water can
sometimes result in leaks – especially if drainage lines are blocked. Please ensure that any drainage pipes, etc. are free from debris in order to ensure maximum drainage. If your drains on patios and balconies have covers, it is a good idea to remove them during the rain – this will allow for better flow of rain water into the pipes and away from your home.

3. Because of the sandy soil in Abu Dhabi, heavy rains can result in rising water, as the soil cannot absorb large amounts of water quickly. Therefore, please be aware of rising water levels if venturing outside or driving in the rain.

4. If you experience leaks, control the interior damage as quickly as possible.
 Move any items that have not yet gotten wet.
If furniture or other items cannot be moved, cover them with plastic sheets to protect them from the water.
Collect dripping water in a leak proof container and make sure the container is on a solid surface.

If you haven’t already done so, we strongly encourage you to obtain insurance to cover your personal belongings in the event of damage. The cost of these policies is extremely reasonable, and one can be obtained simply and easily. Khidmah has worked with several companies in the market, and we will be happy to supply you with contact details if you don’t have a policy in place.


Bet you wish some of you knew this back in Blenheim & out at a certain School!

Night at the Ballet

Broke and on a budget I find myself sitting in the Emirates Palace Hotel Auditorium awaiting the beginning of the ballet.

Arriving at the sumptuous palace grounds in my new car I just had to try out the valet parking.  After all, I now have a car worthy of sitting up there with all those others (or in my mind anyway!).  I probably won’t be able to afford to retrieve the car after the show but who cares?

So no ‘self-park’ for me.  The only downside was that I was alone and there was no-one there to witness my arrival at the front doors.  Oh well!  That’s life.

Suitably attired - what does one wear to the ballet? - I stroll through the palace with my valet ticket in hand.  One could get used to being acknowledged by all these men in uniform or smart suits.

But back to the reason for my visit.  Why am I here?  To fulfill another bucket list item - see Swan Lake performed by the Moscow Ballet.  I bought tickets on Groupon, my best friend for deals.

Our cheap seats are in the balcony and first come, first served, so I arrive early.  Doors open at 6pm for a 7pm start.  I should have taxied then I could of had a glass of wine but opted for a 20 dirham lemonade instead, wishing I hadn’t when I found out I couldn’t take the drink in so had to drink it quickly.

Not being much of a socialite, I wasn’t sure what to wear.  Furs (as in Russia) were out so I opted for a smart long dress worn with a short black jacket with a black Dolce & Cabana (or is it Dior) scarf.  I’m still not brand name savvy, a crime in this country.  The dress code  in the cheaper seats alongside me is more casual but lots are dressed up to the nines downstairs.  The majority of women are wearing short dresses - mainly LBD’s (little black dresses).

While choosing my seat on the balcony a fight nearly erupts behind me.  It might be first come, first served, but two ladies are arguing about who ‘saved’ the seat between them first.  As it’s first come, first served, neither should have!

So now I’m in the front row of the balcony - reminds me of when we had our sisters weekend in Auckland and went to Mama Mia.  After being in my seat waiting for half an hour I realise the seat isn’t the most comfortable as it’s really just a well upholstered kitchen chair.  Should have opted for the row behind with the large armchair type seating.  Another issue is that there is no space to get out so I had to inelegantly stand on my chair and step over the back of it onto the walkway.  On either side I’m flanked by young girls all dressed up in with I consider to be very old-fashioned clothes.  The family on my left all have big bows in their hair and very dowdy dresses.  They look like they’ve stepped out of the ‘80s or some other era.

MAGICAL!  The only word I can use to describe the ballet.  When 22 dancers took the floor in their snowy white tutus, sparkling under the lights, I could only stare in spellbound wonder.  Now I understand what the attraction is towards learning ballet.  Thoughts of my younger sister kept entering my head and I wished she could be here with me tonight experiencing this visually spectacular performance.  Not knowing much about ballet etiquette I clapped vigorously whenever a solo performance finished.  However, it was the group of swans that took my breath away with their synchronized movements and what must have been painful positions that they maintained for some time.

I am always overawed by the interior of the Palace Hotel.  I don’t think I will ever tire of visiting there and my first visit to the auditorium was no exception with it's lavish decoration.

3 hours and 4 acts later the performance ended and I phoned the number on my valet ticket to order my car, thinking that way it would be ready by the time I arrived back at the front doors.

As we were down two flights of stairs the escalator was crowded with people all trying to leave.  I opted for the four sets of stairs, which I’d just walked down on the other side to get down from the balcony to this floor to go back up.  So it was slow going as even the stairs were crowded.

On arriving back up on the ground floor I am amazed at how many people, including local Emirate men, are out having a coffee or drink.  The place is crowded and only gets worse as I make my way to the front doors.

Eagerly I scan the vehicles to see if mine has arrived.  The crowd surges each time a car arrives.  The locals get their 4WDs first - all white!  The valet boss man seems to be driving them so I’m sure there is some system here.  I’m about last to get mine - and I’m still unsure of how much to tip.  I scan the crowd to see what notes others are holding in their hands and see a variety.  Never sure if there is a set fee I have 20 dirhams in 5's (which looks cheap) and a 50 dirham note in the other hand.

Finally my car arrives and is parked over the other side so I am able to discretely ask the driver if there is a set charge - no it’s free madam!  So I give him the fist full of fives and he politely says no need madam but takes it anyway.  Reminder to self - always have a 10 or 20 for valet parking.  I usually pay 10 dirhams at our training hotel but see many others only giving 5 dirhams ($1.70).  Hardly worth standing out all day in the heat to park my car.  Then you get the locals who probably tip 100 dirhams so no wonder their cars are parked outside on display and come up so quickly.

All in all a great night out at the ballet.  Tops off a great week which started with a fabulous massage downstairs and a facial - another Groupon special.

Then tonight I’m off to visit my friends who have just had a baby boy this week, 3 weeks early.  I’ve made a plate of pikelets to take up.

And did I mention the weather?  It’s fabulous here at the moment and I’ve been out walking most days or nights.  We even had a bit of a storm yesterday (lucky I was still down in the playground talking to my friend & hadn’t started my walk) which started as a sand storm but I wonder if it was the tail end of the typhoon as once it cleared even the big barriers around the road outside had collapsed.  It’s incredible watching the power of the wind from 28 floors up.

I wonder what this week will bring?

Driving lessons #101

Driving lesson #101

OMG!  I’ve just had the most unusual driving lesson ever - and I’ve had plenty of them over the years.

It all began back at the teenager’s school when I picked him up an hour late today as I’d had a meeting.  As the carpark was empty I suggested a driving lesson but then changed my mind and said wait till we get home to Reem Island as there’s less traffic.

Let me start at the beginning.  Last week I made the momentous decision to buy a car.  Which was a drama in itself.  To cut a long story short, I’d purchased a Chevrolet Malibu with high end specs (you know what I mean - leather seats, sun roof, keyless start, automatic this, that and the other thing).  I must say it’s lovely to drive and I love the new leather smell each morning.  Plus the rear camera is a godsend for parking here.

So I duly drive home and once we’re on the island the teenager is hounding me to stop.  Eventually I pull over on a little used road and let him take the wheel.  Now he’s driven plenty at home in NZ but hasn’t since we’ve been here.  So off he goes.  We’re on the other side of the island that I can see from our window.  As I’d spied someone having lessons there at the weekend it seemed like a good starting point.

So he’s driving down these roads and there is a lot of construction happening so the road is quite full of debris, stones, bits of cloth on the manholes and other such obstacles.  Having no idea where the road goes I just keep on saying go straight.

I’m enjoying not driving and admiring the scenery.  I look across at the “Sea Palace” and say WOW!  That’s impressive.  Then I ask the teenager why there are so many cars parked there?  As he usually knows everything it seemed like a normal question.  Having no idea, he continued driving down the road.

This road is in much better condition and clean without the debris so I say keep going.

Oops!  A dead end onto sand so I say do a u-turn which he does.  Suddenly two Indian men appear out of nowhere walking alongside the road.

Then even more suddenly an Emirate man appears and begins to cross the road with a determined look on his face.  As the teenager doesn’t have a licence to drive here yet I’m getting a bit worried.  So the Emirate crosses the road and stops the two men.  There is much gesturing and pointing.  Fine I think, he just wants directions.  But he’s standing in the middle of the road, blocking our way.  Then he approaches the car - drivers side.  OMG!  I’m thinking to myself.  What now?

He asks where are we from?  NZ or down the road?  Which is the correct answer?  Any form of officialdom here makes you nervous.  The teenager suddenly seems to be mute so I reply that we live on the island and are just looking around.

We are then instructed, yes ‘instructed’ to turn around and go back through the sandy road and construction camp.  I protest and say we’ll just go back the way we’ve come but no!

So next thing the two Indian men are jumping into the back seat and directing us along this back road.  I’ve got visions of having to ring my roadside rescue to get us out of the sand. (Only in the UAE does this come as standard along with running out of petrol)

My phone starts ringing and it's one of my teachers from work wanting to talk to me about something.  I can't concentrate on anything as am watching the driver, listening to the men in the back, listening to the phone, watching the Emirate, yelling directions at the teenager, telling him to make sure he doesn't run over the Emirate while doing a three-point turn, and just generally freaking out.

Remember, this is my brand new car.

Finally we leave the sand track and reach a road of sorts.  The road gets considerably worse then very high speed bumps appear on the bumpy tarmac.  The teenager is still driving and I’m feeling very nervous so tell the teenager to go to the side of the bump to avoid ripping out the bottom of my car.  He does so then the men in the back begin yelling, bus, bus, bus.  WTF?  A bloody workers bus is just about through my door.  Where the hell he came from I don’t know but the teenager never saw him.  It was so close to running over us it wasn’t funny.  The Indian men wondered what the hell they were doing in this car with us.  I was wondering the same thing!

Then the teenagers phone starts ringing - cell phones are such a @#$%&% distraction when you are driving - and he wants me to answer it.  No way, focus on your driving.  Continuing through two sets of traffic lights we drop off our passengers then continue onto home, all in one piece.

Anyway, the story was that the Sheikh and other royalty were meeting over at the Sea Palace.  Now remember this is a building across a stretch of water from where we were driving.  However, no-one, and I mean no-one, was allowed to distract them by walking or driving by.  And I had asked why all the cars were there?  It also explains why this stretch of dead-end road was so clean, just in case they spotted anything moving in the wind or saw some rubbish.

So us arriving, driving by very slowly with blacked out windows, probably caused a bit of unease on the part of the Emirate man whose own 4WD was parked behind a fence now that I think about it.

What a hoot!  Lucky we weren’t the next international incident!

Wedding belle

Wedding belles

I finally got invited to a wedding.  Everyone says if you are invited you must go just so you can see what goes on.  One of my Emirate teachers at school was getting married so we were all invited.

I drove to the Wedding Hall, a massive structure covered in fairy lights that is set up for weddings.  Often when driving past I’ve thought what a magnificent sight it is and tonight it was my turn to go there.

The teacher had told me to get my hair done, put on makeup (we wear none compared to them), wear my party dress and heels.

So I followed all her instructions as I’d been told that the dresses are to die for, red carpet style.  I often see the beautiful frocks in shops here and wonder who wears them.  Well, now I know.

We arrived a bit early before 8pm and I parked the car.  I travelled with another teacher so didn’t arrive alone.  We’d been told to make sure we went to the woman’s side but of course we didn’t know where it was and had to do a loop, walking in my high heels and very long dress, around the block, past many wee shops full of men.

A few other woman were dropped off by their sons and we waiting outside.  Not sure of the protocol I walked back to the car and drove around and parked right outside the woman’s entrance.  Finally we wandered in and were greeted at the door by an assembly line of woman.  I later found out who they all were but most of them were the groom’s family.  I think they pay for the wedding.

So we chose a table and sat ourselves down.  Taking our cue from the others there we unwrapped the various dishes of food on our table and ate.  A mixture of typical dishes were served, most savoury but some sweet.

We ate hummus with bread, fattoush, vine leaves, a basket of fruit, a sweet junket like desert, and other treats.

Waitresses circulated offering us another sweet, stick desert with nuts.  Then mini deep fried donuts with a sweet sticky sauce.

Perfumed oil was continually offered to anoint ourselves with and the ever-present Oud incense was offered for us to waft the fragrance onto ourselves.

Our side of the hall consisted of 30 tables set for 8.  In the middle of the hall was a giant stage with a catwalk.  Loud Arabic music blared out while we were offered continual drinks of fresh juices (strawberry, guava & orange), Arabic coffee, 4 different teas, and more sweet nibbles.

After two hours the food itself arrived.  On each table a huge platter was placed of biriyani - a rice dish - topped with a baby goat or lamb.  We never did decide which it was and the two are interchangeable here.  Chick peas were sprinkled on top of the meat.  Each table received this bounty, it didn’t matter if there were only two sitting there.  This was accompanied by 6 other dishes, saffron rice, spciy vege soup out of a can, meat & pasta dish, samosa, and a glue like gelatinous substance that tasted foul.  Whatever that is is very popular here and I’ve seen it at all our school functions.

For dessert a bread & cream type pudding arrived and then two types of cake.  All the food was hurriedly taken away with hardly any being eaten.  I hope it didn’t all go to waste as there are many hungry, low paid workers in this city.

I imagine a duplicate meal was happening on the men’s side.  You see, the men and the women are in separate venues, well the same venue but separate side of the hall.

After the food the lights dimmed in anticipation of the arrival of the bride.  A guard of honour of beautifully dressed young women lined the red-carpet.  The doors were shut, the two photographers were in place, the rose-petal holder all ready, then the bride appeared in the doorway.  It was like a beauty pagent.  A spotlight followed her as she slowly made her way along the red-carpet to the stairs leading to the stage.

The older women made this bloodcurdling noise at the arrival of the bride.  I’m not sure if it is a sign of excitement or to scare the enemy but it’s an unforgetable sound.

The bride was unrecognisable from the woman I see daily at work.  She glittered from head to toe in a sparkling white and silver dress.  A movie camera filmed her every move as she glided under the coloured lights.  It probably took her ½ hour to cover the short distance but it’s all about being seen and admired.

Her dress was beautiful with a long train fanning out behind her.  The veil was held in place by a glittering tiara and the dress was fishtailed with ruffles.

Being sleeveless we could admire her hennaed arms.  She looked a million dollars sparkling everywhere.

The bridal walk went on and on.  We were all give heart shaped biscuits iced like the bride & groom.  The brides mum was dressed like a bride herself in cream and wearing a veil.

The younger women did the most incredible hip-shaking dance which they must learn from birth.  I had not seen this before but they all put on black belts around their mostly ample hips and shook their booty.  One girl even had a thick belt with bells on it.  Boy, could they shake!  It was an impressive display and made us all the more certain that we were not going to be up there dancing.

The song fat-bottomed girls came to mind as I watched.  Did you know that a big bum is considered an asset here and the bigger the better.  My friend refers to it as the table bum, you can sit a cup of tea on it.  And if you’re a bit too slim you can buy padded panties to give you some shape.  Imagine that!  “Does my bum look too small in this?”  Yes, dear!

The bride finally made it to the white couch where she would sit like royalty while everyone came to pay their respects to her.  Some of us went up, braving the steps and walking the catwalk to wish her well.  As I was leaving the floor after meeting her mother and sisters, I was accosted by the grooms sister who had been asking us to dance.  Now she was another shaker of some repute and I was anxious to get down from the catwalk but no, she grabbed my hand and I had to dance a couple of songs up there with her.  Then the grooms mother came along with a fist full of fivers and threw the money at us.  Reminded me of Bailey’s 21st but in this case the workers just about knocked us over grabbing the money.  And I thought it was for my amazing efforts!

Suddenly all the women cover up, including the bride who now wears a white satin hood - reminded me of the Clu clux clan - and words goes around that the groom is coming.

So to much ado he is escorted in by his mum and sisters.  He is dressed in his best finery, looking like a Sheikh (he could be for all I know) wearing a black and gold robe over his white kandora.  He carries the shepards crock that is commonplace here, but it’s probably a camel crock.  His white headdress is held in place by a black rope, the camel rope.  He looks incredibly smart and it must have been daunting walking into that room full of woman alone.  But he holds his head high and walks the carpet and catwalk to meet his bride.  Eventually they undo the three knots of her hood and he can see her face.

We left just after this as it was a work night and it was already 11pm.  Apparently more men came in, family I believe, and they took some photos.

The whole performance, and that’s what it was, a beauty pagent, is so different to our weddings.  A ceremony had taken place a week earlier which is the marriage itself, like a civil service.  Tonight was all about show.  I hate to think what it cost in terms of food, and her dress.

Amsterdam

Amsterdam

Sunday 7th April, 2013

The ship docked in Amsterdam at 4am.  An early breakfast was available for those catching early flights.  Everything was well organised with bags colour coded.  We’d opted to stay on board for a bit as we couldn’t book into our hotel until the afternoon (a real hassle when arriving in a city early in the morning).

So after a leisurely breakfast we joined the remaining passengers in the lounge and relaxed on-board until 10am, our departure time.  After a while we decided to leave early as it seemed a waste to sit onboard for any longer while we were in such a bustling port.

We discussed booking a taxi but decided to walk - it didn’t look far on the map.  Thankfully it was an easy walk even with 3 suitcases between the two of us.

Beware of cyclists!  Stick to the walking lanes and look carefully before crossing roads.  There are trams and cyclists everywhere.

We cut through the railway station, joining a throng of other tourists.  As we emerged from the station our hotel was in front of us across several busy streets.  A grand old lady, The Park Plaza Victoria, was positioned in a prime spot.  Booking hotels close to the railway stations is a bonus and something I’d recommend to other travellers.

We arrived at the hotel before 10am with the intention of leaving our luggage but to our surprise our room was available so we checked in.

Once again we’re in an older annex but the room is quiet.  It has tea and coffee with a fridge.  Beds are comfy, heating more than adequate.  Room has an annex with writing desk & 2 chairs.  Plenty of room for us and our bags.  The bathroom is basic with a shower over the bath.

There isn’t much soundproofing between the rooms and we can hear our neighbour snoring then talking on the phone later that evening.

But no time to waste lamenting over hotel rooms.  By 11am we’re on the red bus taking in the sights (17 euro).  We stop at the Jewish museum (1 euro), Gassons diamonds tour, and Hard Rock Café for coffee (3,35 euro - where our neighbours are asked to leave as it must be the only place in town where you can’t smoke a joint).  We find a wonderful seat outside on the canal in the sun.  Later it’s back to the hotel for a cuppa.  We buy some milk and food (4,25 euro).

We decide to walk over to the Anne Frank House later that evening and join the queue (9 euro).  What an experience that was.  You could feel the fear as you climbed the narrow steps to the top where the family hid for all that time.  Looking out the windows at the neighbouring homes you wonder how they managed to stay hidden at all.  As with many museums we’ve visited you don’t have time to stop and admire the exhibits, it’s just keep moving in a line as it’s so busy so they need to keep people moving.  I’m keen to read her diary again.

Monday 8th April 2013

Downstairs for a fabulous breakfast - just as if we were still on the ship.  Hot variety, yoghurt, cereal & fresh fruits, toast, breads & pastries, cold meats & cheese, juices, hot tea & coffee.

By 9.30am we’re back on the first red bus of the day to have another trip around town.  As you pay for a 24 hour ticket we want to get our moneys worth.

Then it’s back to the hotel for a cuppa and dutch currant bun.

Suitably revitalised it’s off again walking to the flower market where we find a fabulous selection of vendors in floating tent-like stalls.  Tasted cheese, cheese and more cheese and some wonderful mustards to go with them.  There is an absence of fresh flowers but plenty of wooden tulips and bulbs and packs of seeds.  This isn’t looking good for the purpose of our trip here - to see the tulips!

These clogs would even be too big for the teenager!  With all this wonderful merchandise on display I buy myself a small tulip carry bag and an Amsterdam themed ashtray for one of my sons.  Needing to find a bathroom (always an issue when travelling) we head into McDonalds and pay 0,30 E!  Not even a free loo in there.

We catch the tram back to our hotel for hot soup and another bun.  Real cheap eating so far.

I decide to buy an umbrellas in anticipation of rain.  Why I don’t know as it’s the second sunny day and town is still rocking with so many holidaymakers.

A new sound, the sound of Amsterdam, is the continual clatter of rolling suitcases over cobblestones.

I’ve never seen so many bicycles or people in one place, most sitting in cafes in rows worshipping the sun.  Very strange, almost like a cult and we snap photos from inside the bus. I wonder what sort of people live here but perhaps it’s what you do when you haven’t seen the sun in over 3 months.

We head off across the street from our hotel for 1 hour canal cruise @ 4.30pm.  Interesting!  We began out in harbour by where our cruise ship docked then head through one of 11 sets of lock gates into the canals.  We pass by merchant’s houses - magnificent.  Most are too expensive for private ownership now so are owned by Embassy, banks & insurance companies.

Amsterdam must have been wealthy in it’s heyday.

With the cruise (15 euro) we purchased a reduced price Red Light walking tour for 10 euro leaving at 7pm.

So it’s home to the hotel at 5.30pm then get rugged up and out again by 6pm.  Stopped at a vegetarian restaurant for falafel - biggest ever had and you could refill salads.  Very busy and I imagine successful business franchise.  I ate too much, paused to look in a couple of clothes shops, then walked to Dam Square by 7pm to meet our tour guide.

I’m surprised by how many are there for the tour - around 60 on a cold Monday night.
Apparently Amsterdam is second most popular tourist destination in the world behind San Francisco.

The tour is informative, guide young Aussie, Julian.  Not as many girls in the Red Light District as I’d imagined.  Tiny, tiny rooms they work in.  Not many customers.  Plenty looking - don’t know how many buying.  We’ve been asked not to take photos unless we want trouble.  Our tour group all took in a peep show - priceless!  The look on some of the faces was worth the euro we paid.

The area isn’t as seedy as I’d thought.  There are plenty of ‘coffee houses’ to tempt smokers.  By now we’ve learnt that cafes are where you buy a cup of coffee, coffee houses are where you smoke.

The sex shops are something else - funniest condom & blow up toys I’ve ever seen or imagined.  Just imagine, a Maggie Simpson condom!  Condoms are made to measure at several establishments.

We walked back to our hotel by 8.30pm.  Big day - 11 hours out.  I’m in bed by 9.30pm to write up diary, accompanied by loud noise from our neighbour.  We can’t help but wonder what she’s doing here, asleep all day, up all night???


Tuesday 9th April

I’ve made myself a note to take a bag to breakfast so we can ‘procure’ our lunch.  We’ve been furtively taking a bun but noticing everyone else does the same quite openly we’re getting brazen to the point of making a sandwich which we then wrap in serviettes and pop into our bag for lunch.

After a sleep in - our room was too hot again and I had to open the window in the night, it’s down to a leisurely breakfast 8.45-10am.

We decide to take the tram today and buy a 24 hour tram ticket for 7,50E rather than 2,80E  for one hour.  Caught the tram from the station to the Heritage Museum.  Had to walk 0.6km as closest tram stop is closed.  Lots of roadworks meant several stops on red bus were also missed.

Van Gogh exhibition is small and temporary as VG museum is shut, along with Rijks museum.  Just our luck!  Coldest winter in 100 years so no tulips then two main art museums shut.

I manage to spend a bit at the museum shop though.
Sunflower bag 27,50 E
2 Van Gogh carry bags 2,95E each
Museum entry 15,00E

Back at the hotel mid-afternoon I’m shocked by the news that Iran had a 6.3 earthquake and my 63 story building in Abu Dhabi has been evacuated..  Frantically I try to contact the teenager who is home alone.  (Yes, you’ve been wondering where he was.)   As per normal he slept through the whole event and didn’t even wake up.  Lucky it was only precautionary when after shocks hit rather than the real deal.  Another similar event after my return home has me running down 28 flights of stairs.  Not something to take lightly, I couldn’t walk for days due to such sore legs!

Then it’s off out for a walk to see the sights.  Found a Kings sports shop around the corner down the back alley and bought some brand name t-shirts for the teenager. We’d been so focused on the shops out on the main street we hadn’t been down the back streets which are teeming with life.

We stopped at Burger King for a bite and hot chocolate then I grabbed a slice of pizza for my dinner on the way home.

Went back out later to check out the buses for tomorrow’s outing (easier said than done as rail station staff not very helpful).  Rode the tram down & back to Spui to get our moneys worth from day ticket.


Wednesday 10th April, 2013

Up at 7.30, down to breakfast 8am.  Then it’s over to the station to attempt catching a bus to Edam.  There are plenty of tours but they all cost around 40 euros so are trying to do it ourselves.  Obviously Amsterdam relies on tours as difficult to get any information to do it yourself.  After the 3rd information desk we finally found a bus just sitting waiting for us!

10 euro for a day pass.  A helpful Malaysian tourist has map and shows us where to go.  Obviously he’s done his homework.

Tourist tip:
Central station for trains only.
Trams and metro leave out front.
City buses across tram lines (GVB).  Only do inside city.
Countryside buses very hard to find.  3rd stop lucky.  Walk through to back of station, nothing obvious but luck was with us.  Bus to Edam waiting - yellow buses 10E for day pass.  Left within 3 mins of us arriving just before 10am.  Buy ticket from driver.  Newspapers on bus but not in English.
Volandam is the first stop before Edam so get off t here first.  Can catch bus & change to go to Marken which saves getting ferry & all included in 10E!
Tip: Get map from info centre opposite front of station.

The landscape is flat - no growth in fields.  Fields are dotted with white swans - like on Rhine.  We see our first cows in fields.  We pass picturesque villages along the busy 2 lane road.  I’m not used to that and find the oncoming traffic is very close to us.

The fishing village of Volandam is our first stop.  Wow!  We’ve bet the tour buses and are first on the scene.  Getting off at the bus stop you have no idea what a treat is in store for you once you walk down to the waterfront.  A quaint, yet working fishing village with all the tourist facilites you could want.   We opt for De Boors café for a hot chocolate and slice of apple cake (4,40 E).

As we stare out at the North Sea it feels like we are at the Arctic with the cold wind blowing.  Still, it doesn’t stop us enjoying a freshly cooked meal of fried fish fillet on bread roll for lunch (4E).  Delicious!  It’s worth braving the cold to sit on an outside bench with the harbour backdrop.

There is so much selection from the fish vendors it’s difficult to know what to choose.  Many other tourists opt for the pickled herrings but I don’t think I’ll be able to stomach them.  Most of the vendors look like they were born there doing the same job all their lives.

After strolling the many shops we wander back along the side streets to the bus stop.  I am amazed to find a shoe shop selling sandals in my size so take the opportunity to buy a pair (59,95e).  This was one thing I wanted to do in Amsterdam as they don’t stock many shoes in my size in UAE.  Still they are harder to find here than I’d imagined.

 
Next stop Edam.  Now I’d be expecting to see a big cheese or something - well that’s what you’d get in NZ.  But we nearly missed the town as there were no directions once we got off the bus.  Not sure where to go and looking like we’d been dropped on the outskirts of the town we spy a large church dominating the skyline so cross the road and head down past a busy technical college with students catching buses outside.

As we approach the church the landscape around us is barren & desolate with foggy grey horizon.  I spy a paddock of sheep by the church, the first sheep we’ve seen on our trip.

We wander back along the opposite side of the road towards our bus stop and stumble onto a cheese market, just packing up.  They have the most beautiful fresh fish for sale here which seems odd!

Into a pub for the obligatory hot chocolate - the best and hottest one we’ve had yet on trip (2,25e).  Sadly we couldn’t fit in any cheese as still full from our earlier stop.

We run into a group of ‘Red Hat’ ladies exiting from a pub lunch at Dam Hotel.  As I’m wearing purple & red I join in their photo.  They remind me of my Aunty Pat with her zest for life and her red hats so I send her a photo that night.

Stopping at a bakery we get some cakes for supper (3,35e) then head back to catch the 110 bus towards Amsterdam.  Our plan is to change bus at Mannehke for Marken but once back on the bus we decide to forgo Marken as it’s too cold and foggy for an island visit.

We admire the front windows of the houses we pass on the bus.  Front window floral displays are a source of pride & possibly competition between neighbours.  They look like show windows or museum displays.

Edam is a quaint village with narrow cobbled streets and many locks and canals.  The brick houses are joined together.  I’m so pleased we didn’t miss the town of Edam.  What a gem!

Back at the hotel it’s time for a cuppa to warm up then we head downstairs to have a beer (3,40e) in the bar and soak up the ambience of our busy inner city hotel.

One quirky aspect of Amsterdam (other than drugs and sex) is the fascination with hot chips.  I’ve never seen so many oversized advertisements and so many people queuing to buy chips.  They come with a selection of toppings which make them look even less desirable.  However, tonight we’ve finally succumbed to chips!  Not even nice.  Small overcooked ends, nothing like the ones on display, no real chips at all (3,50e).  I opted for a curry sauce as couldn’t handle the mayonnaise or cheese most people choose.

Tonight is a night for succumbing and next stop is a visit to the sex museum - which is more like a porn show! (4 e)  The interactive models were a hoot (flasher, pisser, red light naked men, loo sex).  After close scrutiny of exhibits we return home to the hotel.  I wonder if kids here have a better attitude to sex than other countries as I see young kids playing with explicit toys in the many tourist shops we go into.  There is none of the ‘dirtiness’ attached to it here.

Another aspect we’ve noticed is even though Amsterdam is party heaven and filled with tourists, many large groups of guys arriving for a weekend, in our time here we only saw one drunk person.  So even though everyone’s smoking & drinking up large, the public behaviour is much better than you’d see in any town in NZ.  Food for thought!

We’ve been lucky with our hotels on this trip.  I can’t emphasise enough how important location is when choosing a hotel, especially in a new city.  Another must for me is having tea & coffee facilities as this saves you so much money when travelling.  I may live in a different world than I’m used to back in NZ but old habits die hard and I’ll always be a budget traveller.  My sisters may laugh at me turning up with my teabags and thermos but it’s stood me in good stead for many a holiday.  When travelling abroad the best option is having breakfast included as this can be a substantial meal to start your day thus reducing your food budget significantly.

We are thankful for our hotel as we witness many older people lugging their suitcases up narrow flights of stairs into seedy looking hotels in the back streets.  We take the time to check out the other newer side of our hotel with more expensive rooms.  We go back happy with what we’ve got, better towels would go a long way to upgrade the feel as would sound-proofing the walls.  But for what we’ve paid, we’re happy. We hear others complaining at reception but some people are never satisfied.



Thursday 11th April, 2013

When it’s spring again, I’ll bring again, tulips from Amsterdam...

Today is the big day I’ve waited for for 9 months.  No, not a baby, a trip to see the tulips in Amsterdam.  This was why I booked this cruise to fulfill a lifelong dream.  Only problem is that no-one told me that it was going to be the coldest winter in 100 years and the tulips wouldn’t be flowering.  I’d even timed the cruise so that we were on the river first to give us an extra week before arriving here just in case the bulbs were late in flowering.  But this late is ridiculous.  All week we’ve been looking at floral displays planted in tubs and measuring the rate of growth.  All week we’ve been asking our concierge if we should go today.  He kept saying go as late as you can, give them some more sun.  Well, it’s now as late as we can go so today is the day!

We’ve booked a 10.15am tour so we can have a leisurely, relaxed breakfast.  Made our daily snack for lunch along with currant bun & an orange.

Wouldn’t you know it?  Today is the first day of real rain since we arrived in Amsterdam.  We are wet by the time we walk down to the tour centre.  There are heaps of people there.  I think we’ve made a mistake paying 40 euro for the tour and should have persevered over at the station to catch the train and a bus.  No great saving in cost though.

Most people leave so we feel better until we realise they are already on our double-decker bus before us.  Bus must seat 80-100 & it’s nearly full.

We set off, sitting upstairs.  It’s wet, cold and bleak so we are wondering what we are doing visiting today.  We kept putting it off to allow the tulips time to flower.

Our reluctance is heightened by the constant talking of our guide - 1st in one language then in another.  On the way back it’s 3 languages.  45 minutes of this is too much!

As we pass through the Dutch countryside we see yellow fields of daffidols but no tulips blooming.

We arrive at Keukenhof gardens to find hundreds already there.  The gardens are magnificent but way off being ready.  The ‘most beautiful spring gardens in the world’ just awaits spring!

Crocuses are out and daffodils.  There are a few red tulips but most are not ready.  Cameras at the ready we pose for photograph after photograph.

However, once we discover the indoor pavilions filled with colourful displays and tulips of every colour imaginable we are in our element.  I take so many photos of tulips that my phone goes flat!  Whatever will I do with all these photos?

The outdoor gardens are interesting with stepping stones in a lake fill of swans.  It’s icy cold in places as we walk around admiring the many displays.  I buy a jigsaw at the gift shop to remind me of this day.

We spend a magical 3 ½ hours there then it’s a 45 minute drive back, once again listening to our guide.  Why do guides think they have to talk for the whole trip?  Are they paid on a word count?

As it’s our final night in Amsterdam and I’ve spent all my cash, I get some money out.  Then it’s back to the Kings shop for some more clothes buying before a final walk around the red light district and coffee shops.

Time to pack for the journey home.

Friday 12th April, 2013

After breakfast today we head over to the railway station to take a train out to the airport.  Public transport is easy to use here, once you figure it out.

The sounds of Amsterdam continue to haunt me:
Clatter of suitcases on cobblestones
clang of tram bells before they start
screech of trams on lines
chatter of school groups
tinkle of bicycle bells

The train carriage we hop into is full so we push and fight our way through with our bags into an empty section.  Why are others standing when this is empty?  We sit down and relax.  Later we find out it’s the first class section but no conductor comes along so we stay put.  It wasn’t worth the upgrade to buy first class but having a seat was worth it.  Seen we didn’t upgrade all was good.

We’re at the airport really early and hover around wondering what to do.  We’re told the check-in doesn’t open for a couple of hours so McDonalds for a coffee seems like a great idea and we head upstairs to find it.

We end up being second in the queue but this doesn’t mean much as others get through much quicker than us.

It might be easy to get into Amsterdam but it’s not easy to get out.  Security at the airport is tight - in fact it’s more like a prison than an airport.  We are x-rayed with our arms up while guards walk around acting like they are goalers, barking out orders to those waiting in the line.

The holiday is over.  What happens in Amsterdam, stays in Amsterdam...

We fly Emirates back to Dubai where I tearfully farewell my sister, Pam.  Then it’s onto the bus back to Abu Dhabi for me while Pam stops over ready for her long flight home tomorrow.

Memories of this trip will last me a lifetime.