Good Friday - March 29th 2013
Dubai - Geneva
After all the uncertainty of whether or not I’d be able to travel today we have finally reached Dubai airport in the early hours of the morning. We’re dropped off by our bus and head into a large empty area with no-one there but one staff member behind the counters. Presuming this is because it’s so early we make a queue to get our bags checked in. Meanwhile the check-in man’s phone rings and from the half of the conversation we can hear it sounds as if he is required urgently at the other check-in area. He responds that he has a line here and will come as soon as he can.
After check-in we stroll leisurely through Dubai airport. I am struck by the immense size of it and am lucky to have the well-traveled sister with me to get me from A to B. When we arrive in the terminal proper there are long lines waiting to check in. We realise how fortunate we were to sneak in downstairs and now begin our search for plastic bags to pop our toiletries into.
I’m not sure that my brain is functioning at this stage, due both to the early hour, lack of sleep, and being so sick, so am grateful to be guided by my big sis! As one should be...
Our Emirates flight is 40 minutes late leaving Dubai. Why is it when I am late (not often) the plane leaves but when it is someone else they always seem to wait?
Pam and I are seated together though not in our carefully chosen (at least 9 months ago) seats. I’m in the window seat and she is next to me in a row of three. We hope and pray and are rewarded by someone above that no-one joins us in this row.
As one knows, food is very important on airline flights and today is no exception. I’ve ordered vegetarian meals both ways so am keen to see what’s on offer for the ‘Oriental’ selection.
Breakfast:- small fruit salad; brown bun; margarine; jam; juice; tomato with hummus; tabboleuh; pickles; artichoke, and two other spicy pickled vegetables. It was delicious although flat bread would have made it easier to eat. Already I’ve adapted to Middle Eastern eating habits. I managed to get a croisant as well which was an extra. The ‘normal’ meal was very similar to mine.
Lunch:- white bun; margarine; water; salad consisting of tomato, ½ spring roll in rice paper, grated green apple and orange; main consisting of hot rice with mushrooms & bok choy. This was very chewy so I didn’t eat it. For desert cold rice with cardamon (delicious). Once again I was lucky and managed to exchange the inedible main for a lovely fish meal instead which was on the normal menu. Cod; parsley sauce; cubed roasted herb potatoes; beans & carrots.
There is one aspect of ordering vegetarian meals that I’ve noticed on every airline. You don’t get the same add-ons as the normal meals. Cheese & crackers and biscuits are usually excluded along with other treats. Why is this? Chocolate and cheese & crackers topped off the ‘normal’ meal. The only problem with ordering a normal meal is that you don’t know until you are up in the air what the choices will be and there is no other option so unless you want to starve you need to pre-order. Note to airlines: Add in the extras!
Pam and I shared a small bottle of Aussie Sauvignon Blanc & an AOC 2011 Crozes - Hermitage (French red). Other than that it was sleeping for me and I managed to watch one movie. Don’t you just hate it when the movie is nearly finished and they turn off the screens for landing. So I missed the last 5-10 minutes.
We were rewarded with fantastic views of the Turkish mountains covered with snow. Flying over Kuwait I gazed in awe at the oil fields dotting the barren landscape. It’s wonderful to be able to touch the screen in front of you and see where you are and get a look from cameras mounted to the plane.
As we approach Switzerland the cloud clears to afford us our first view of the Italian/Swiss Alps. Unfortunately we are on the wrong side of the plane to spot the Matterhorn but we are nonetheless impressed by what we see.
We thought we’d be the only ones on holiday as UAE has no school on Fridays but we’d forgotten it was Easter weekend. On arrival at Geneva Airport everyone and I mean everyone is decked out in ski gear. The place is crawling with kids (so much for no travelers) all trailing a suitcase on wheels. Whoever invented them obviously didn’t spend much time in airport lines with kids rolling them along, over our feet, tripping up passengers and generally being a nuisance.
Now the fun begins. As I wait for the bags Pam heads to duty free to grab a bottle of Baileys (19CHF). We head downstairs to catch a train. It’s cold, very cold! With some help from a local we get our train tickets (88CHF) then buy some food from the convenient supermarket located in the station (12CHF). We add the food to our airplane supplies (2 cups water, 3 bread rolls, 2x cheese & crackers & butter). Everyone has told us how expensive Switzerland is so we are following the old Brownie motto - be prepared. Having checked if the cheese has to be declared (NO), even though signs says agricultural products must be, we wait.
We’d missed the 2:06 train so toyed with the idea of detouring to Bern to check out Grandma Burborough’s Bernina sewing machine origins but decided we were too knackered. By this stage I’m barely able to stay on my feet and the idea of sitting somewhere warm is appealing. But this station is anything but warm so I keep slowly walking around the shops admiring the Easter displays.
The station had the most exquisite Easter floral arrangements I’ve ever seen. Of course, it’s Good Friday. They know how to do displays here and we take many photographs to show Dad back in NZ for more creative ideas for him to make in his spare time. I enjoyed looking at the chocolate shops but didn’t buy any as we’d brought some Cadbury chocolate with us from Abu Dhabi.
Finally the train arrives and we sit upstairs in our compartment with one other traveler. My racking cough from my bronchitis may scare him off! I sound as if I should be anywhere but traveling. Stowing our 2 light bags we put our carry bags and food under our wee table and have some badly needed sustanance. After a plastic cup of water (from the plane, carefully saving the cups for our next tipple) and a couple of rows of Cadbury fruit and nut we feel revived. You can tell I’m a budget traveler from way back and I’m putting all my tramping skills into play today.
The day is wet, cold (5 degrees) and grey. But this doesn’t stop the wonderful Swiss timekeeping and our train heads out exactly on time, wending our way around the shores of Lake Geneva.
Even though the train is expensive it gives us a chance to relax, we’ve been up since 2am this morning, and see some of the countryside. The houses are all chalet types, even the apartments, with steeply pitched roofs for snow.
When the conductor appears to punch our tickets he tells us we’ve made a good choice going to Engelberg as there’s a lot of snow!
I’m surprised to see grapes planted close to the city and a patch of unharvested wheat 6ft high. I wonder if they grow root stock here? Wine and Switzerland don’t go together in my fuddled brain. Note to self: Ask my wine friend about this. The ground is waterlogged - obviously there’s been a lot of rain or snow.
Most houses have smoke coming from the chimneys, although it’s too bleak to be described as picture postcard perfect. We round a corner and a marina full of yachts comes into view, accompanied by a camping ground. Hard to image anyone camping in this environment.
The lake disappears once more to be replaced by an industrial area of Lausanne (not to be confused with Lucerne). Graffiti appears more decorative than destructive although it is in abundance.
By now I’ve got my pashmina out for warmth around my shoulders but ditch it in favour of my merino and possum jersey bought in Otaki. I think I’ll be living in it.
A very tall man approaches in a red & black check wool jacket and I feel as if I’m back in Fairlie in the Mackenzie Country popping round to Wynn’s. You’d be right at home here in your Swanni although most are better dressed than that. Ski poles and skis are commonplace - in fact they fly for free on Swiss Air!
So much for seeing Switzerland by train. As we leave Lausanne we climb up above the lake and what view there was is completely obliterated by thick cloud. Just as suddenly we get our postcard view. Light snow has just fallen and sits prettily on the fallow fields and vineyards.
The conductor comes up to us to check all is ok with us. By now we’ve spread out a paper tablecloth and are having a picnic of mountain bread (reminding me of my friend Joanna), sliced gouda cheese and some sweet chilli sauce from the plane. Delicious! I’m wishing I had a thermos as a hot cuppa would be wonderful. The view gets better as the snow gets thicker. This sandwich is one of the best ever. This is why we are here.
The homes have nearly as much wood as the Father @ Princes St.
We enter a tunnel wondering what to expect when we exit as the view changes minute by minute.
‘Traveling mercies’ have paid off and I look up in the darkened carriage to see a man wheeling a tea cart. Did little sister conjure him up for me? I laugh at the image. A hot cup of tea & coffee for us (4.20 CHF each - $10NZ), served up with a dose of Filipino humour completes our version of heaven. My thoughts echo the message on my tea cup - “Sit & relax whispered the tree to the bird.”
Not an animal is in sight as it begins to snow. Huge two or three story barns house the animals. As we reach Freiburg the snowflakes are falling heavily.
“Dad, you’ve met your match!” Big sis and I both burst out laughing at the same time as we pass an impressive woodpile stacked against a home. Then we spy a larger second stack. Our thoughts are in sync as we both speak the same words.
As we leave Bern the landscape changes back to green fields. We pass a Christmas tree farm.
The train picks up speed until it becomes a high speed train. I can hardly write as we hurtle along. Our ears pop each time we leave a tunnel, a very unpleasant sensation. The last thing I need right now is a burst eardrum.
After a stop at Sussie it’s on to Lucern where we change to the mountain train. With only 3-4 minutes between trains and no idea where our platform is, it’s a mad dash from one side of the station, Platform 2, to the very far side, Platform 14.
We jump onto a very warm, nearly empty, much less comfortable train and sit down to prepare for the 48 minute journey.
We catch glimpses of Lake Lucern, grey and foreboding. The snow is wet and heavy - huge snowflakes fall at our first stop.
Passengers disembark at a small station where a swiss chalet beckons light and warmth. The sign flashes, ‘Rooms Free’ but we think the translation is vacant.
Next stop Engelberg. There are 3 of us in our carriage. The scenery is magical - real winter, barns, 4 story chalets, gondolas, mountains close by, nearly white-out conditions. But we are cosy and warm.
The train starts to climb and we enter a tunnel. What an engineering feat! 10 minutes later we emerge into the most magical winter wonderland. We jump up with joyous abandonment and ooh & aah. The travel angel is waiting to welcome us to Engelberg.
Exiting the train we drag our bags through fresh snow and out of the station. More oohs & aahs!
As we stop to take photos two things happen simultaneously. We spy Terrace Hotel perched atop a hill looking down on us while Swiss yodeling music blares out from a crowded ski bar nearby. Mum would love it here. Several drunk older Germans stagger past us on their way to the train - who knows what they are saying to us?
We begin the trek up to the hotel, stopping for photos and to peer into shops. Our hotel stands like a Grand Matriach overlooking her family that has spread out beneath her. I’m reminded of the fortress in “Where Eagles Dare”.
We trudge up the street. I’m glad of my new Columbia shoes and my purple NZ jacket (another Otaki shop purchase). The NZ hat, glove & scarf are all on now and I’m grateful for them. Little did I realise at this stage that I’m about to wear them continually for the next two weeks.
We spot a well-lit up grotto welcoming us to our hotel. A series of dark tunnels and lifts move us ever closer to our destination.
People are friendly and helpful, taking photos, giving directions, talking, tell us they’ll see us later!!! Note to self: I need to be hanging out in ski resorts...
Check-in is efficient, telling us we’ve been upgraded. We find our room in a musty annex off the main side (Room 352). If this is an upgrade, thank goodness we got it is all I can say. The beds are clean and comfortable but that’s about all I could say. A couple of Baileys to celebrate our arrival then it’s time to eat.
We go downstairs for food but the 3 course skiers meal for 25CHF is off - only 5 course with alcohol for 45CHF or a delicious buffet for the same price. Too much food for us so we decline.
We are shattered so after catching up with family on Facebook - including the teenager - it’s back upstairs with a cup of hot water to make a cup of soup & bun then into bed. No drinks with the friendly Sth Africans for me tonight.
I’m still coughing like mad but by 9.30pm I’m asleep, waking at 1am. I take ½ sleeping pill & we’re both up at 5am, marveling at the fact we’re actually here in Switzerland - a long awaited dream.
(For more photos check out my earlier blog entry).
Swiss Alps Photos http://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=661291489153596645#editor/target=post;postID=2076448566294678773;onPublishedMenu=allposts;onClosedMenu=allposts;postNum=23;src=link
