Cruising Day 4 - Kusadasi & Ephesus, Turkey

Today we arrive early at Kusadasi, Turkey.  Kusadasi is one of the most popular seaside resorts in Turkey, attracting a large number of tourists each year.  It has a population of approximately 50,000, and its close proximity to the many ancient cities, archeological sites, villages and parks makes it an advantageous port of call.

Kusadasi means “bird island”, a name derived from the small island of Guverin Adasi (Pigeon Island) which is now connected to the city by a causeway.  Guvercin Adasi is home to a famous castle built to protect against enemy attack, a monument that can easily be seen as the ship sails into the harbour.

The port of Kusadasi was very active for several centuries, however, the Kusadasi of today was founded by the Venetians.  Two hundred years after the Conquest of Constantinople the port became a major trading post with Europe and Africa.  The Ottomans fortified the harbour and built many new buildings and mosques that are still intact.  Today, Kusadasi is a haven for shoppers, home to excellent beaches, and is best known for its historical and archaeological sites.  Many Europeans spend the three month summer holidays at holiday houses here and I could see why.  It is a clean town surrounded by pine clad hills overlooking the harbour.  We spotted a water theme park as we left the town and began climbing the hills.

Our tour today takes us to Ephesus, twenty minutes by bus outside Kusadasi.  This well preserved ruin is on of the best examples of ancient Roman architecture. 

Before we set foot at the ruins our bus wends it way up the gentle mountainside to the religious shrine, The Virgin Mary’s House, which is where she is reputed to have spent the last nine years of her life, dying there at age 63 (they believe).

As we meander up the slope we have an amazing view of the surrounding countryside dotted with pine trees.  A big fire six years ago nearly destroyed the House of the Mother Mary.  As our guide told us this story I recalled watching this on TV back in New Zealand but it had no signifigence to me then.  The hills are showing signs of regrowth but the vast devastation is still visible.

Being among the first bus of the day we don’t have to wait long to enter the shrine which stands on the site of her house.  The story goes that Mother Mary was brought to Turkey by Simon Peter, one of the 12 Disciples, as Turkey was the seat of the Empire at that time.  They went there because it was the most populated, safe place away from people who didn’t like Jews. 

A recent version as to how the house was rediscovered is as follows: A woman had a vision about the Virgin Mothers House and Rome (The Pope) sent some men out to Turkey to search for it.  They were thirsty and asked for water and were directed to the top of the mountain to the monastory where they could find water.  When they arrived they found the remains of her house that they were searching for.

As we file through the shrine you feel a sense of calm and peace.  Apparently the water there is renowned for its healing properties and the shrine contains walking sticks discarded by fellow travelers who have been cured of their diseases or crippling conditions through the holy water.

We use our clay bottle that we were given with The Mother Mary on it to gather holy water.  We wash and drink the water there for good health and peaceful lives.

Photographs were not allowed inside the shrine and the guards kept you moving quickly but you could light a candle outside.  As we wandered down to the water taps we stopped to view the wall of messages that was there and was being added to by other travelers.

As we get back onto the bus to head down the valley to Ephesus we see that there are buses galore trying to get onto the site.  Good timing being early!  The bus pauses so we can snap a photo of the replica statue of Mother Mary.

Ephesus is busy and we are there early in the day.  The guide warns us to take our sunhats and water and we head out into intense heat.  Unlike the shrine where there was a gentle breeze and trees for shade, Ephesus is a sheltered site in a valley so was extremely hot.  Luckily for us we found it much cooler than we were used to with a nice breeze. I was intrigued to find out that Amazon women lived there atop a hill that was surrounded by water which supplied a natural defence for them.  The sea used to be all the way inland but now it is six miles out.

The ruins at Ephesus are amazing.  There was not enough time to appreciate them as we were rushed through.  You really had to keep moving to get out of the way of other tour groups.  I would like to return with a guide book & map of the ruins so I know what is what.

The ancient city of Ephesus was once the site of many great civilizations, and home to the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.  Founded by the Ionians in the 11^th century BC, Ephesus was later ruled by the Romans and conquered by Alexander the Great.  At its peak, it was the leading seaport of Asia Minor, and continued to thrive even as it passed from one successor to another.  Excavations in the 1800's revealed several important artifacts from the Roman and Byzantine Empires and today its ruins are considered to be the most important in Turkey.

As we stroll through the Magnesia Gate, marble streets once lined with chariots lead to the many temples, porticoes, fountains and frescoes of the excavation site.  We step back in time as we explore the Odeon, the Fountain of Trajan, the Temple of Hadrian, the impressive Library of Celsuis and the Grand Theater where St. Paul preached.  Only a few columns remain from the magnificent Temple of Armetis.  But the statue of the goddess, a symbol of abundance and hunting, now stands in the Selcuk Museum.

Our guide was excellent today and told us many entertaining tales during the tour, even taking us into the toilet block and prostitute houses.  At one stage I noticed he spat out his water after taking a mouthful so I asked him if he was fasting.  It was easy to forget that we were still in a Muslim country and that it was Ramadan as there was no obvious display of this with everyone eating and drinking in public unlike in the UAE.  He took the time to answer my question and explain to the whole group about Ramadan.

The frozen towel handed out to us before we watched the ‘show’ was much appreciated to cool our sweating brow.  Pity the same couldn’t be said for the show depicting Roman gladiators, which was poor, to say the least. 

As we left the ruins to find our bus we were assailed by vendors selling cold drinks, scarfs, trinkets and clothing.  If you were silly enough to walk into the stall to check out something you were lucky to get out again.

Pity I didn’t learn that lesson there rather than at our next stop.

Next stop - Faberge Carpets back at the port where we were treated to pure Turkish charm and hospitality.  A glass of ouzo, apple tea, wine, beer, coffee or soft drink was given to us all.  

Then we were treated to a display of weaving to show us how the Turkish Carpets are made.  The girl followed the intricate pattern and I was intrigued to see the weaving process.

Next she cut the pile back to the finished length using special scissors.  The weavers can only work for 30 minutes at a time then they have to have a break otherwise their eyesight suffers due to the intense concentration required.  The skill was incredible and I valued their ability.

                                                                                                 

Oh my, what beautiful rugs.  Of course the ones that caught my eye were the most expensive and colourful, being from the region devastated by the major earthquake with huge loss of life a couple of years back and hence there are no more of them.  Therefore a hefty price tag.  They were very distinctive patterns and I loved them.

Still, I managed to find several others that I wouldn’t mind in my home.  As I said, weakness and a credit card is sniffed out by these Turks, especially after a good stiff drink.

Madam might just like to see this on a wooden floor?  Any hesitation and they’re in for the kill! 

After my personalised viewing in another room I admit I can’t afford it.  Next minute it’s folded up in a carry-on suitcase which will reduce the price dramatically if I take it with me instead of them sending it.  I’m practically walking out the door with it but no, I desist.  Next minute, the Manager is in there talking terms.  Madam might like to pay 1/4 now on her credit card and the balance over the next three months.

What the hell?  I might be dead so may as well have a Turkish Rug to hand down to my kids as apparently it will outlast me by some several hundred years.  Before I can think too deeply, I’ve signed my name on the back of my new carpet and signed the credit card slips. 

“Are you sure Madam wouldn’t like two carpets?”  Much cheaper price if I take two.  NO!

As we try to leave the shop the manufacturing jeweller downstairs sniffs out a sale and I get the hard sell.  If only I had enough money I’d be the proud owner of a four blue diamond band with normal diamonds and white gold.  Lovely, and a special price for me in NZ $.  This sale even got the tour guide in from outside (where he had been waiting ages for us as everyone else had left and he was responsible for getting us back to the ship) to grab the pen and reduce it even further.  Funny!!!

Our ship looms large at the wharf, much bigger than the many other cruise ships in port.  The way back to the ship is bordered by touristy shops nicely set out to appeal to those returning to the cruise ships.  This town sure knows how to get the tourist dollar.  And speaking of dollars, they take any currency!

Back on board tonight is ‘white night’ so I shower and dress in my white 3/4 pants, a long sleeved cotton white top that I bought back home from Easybuy, and my high silver sandals.  I throw on a silk scarf and head down to dinner to be told by a fellow diner I look lovely and that my outfit really suits me.  Nice.

After another lovely three course meal in the restaurant it’s time to check out the entertainment.  Before heading off to the show we have our own show in the dining room, the singing waiters.  All the diners twirl their serviettes while the waiters sing (badly) in Italian while arranged on the magnificent staircase over three floors.  They then parade around the dining rooms to the sound of clapping and cheering.  Our own floorshow!

We normally took our programme to dinner so we could discuss what was on and who was going where.  Tonight’s show is one of my favourites, Ice Dancing.  It features just that, dancing on ice with several different themes and costumes throughout the show.  When the skaters are introduced, one guy is a Kiwi.  I thought he was as he was had a Maori band tattoo on his arm.  Watching the show made me think of my sister who I recall wanted to be a skater and a dancer.  Here she could have been both. 

After that it’s off to join some others to form a team for the Beatles Music quiz.  Sadly we only get 18/20 and lose to several 100% scoring teams. 

At 11pm I head off to an Astronomy class which is to be conducted out on the helipad.  Unfortunately it’s blowing a gale and for the first time on the cruise I’m feeling cold.  A powerful laser is used to show us the constellations.  It’s difficult to hear the guide due to the wind and when, after 15 minutes, we are joined by a large group of noisy latecomers and the guide begins again, those of us who were there at the beginning all drift off to warmer parts...